Taormina made me fall in love with Sicily a long time ago. Finally, this time around I have more time in the area and the time to explore is my favorite time of all. Taking the bus from Giardini the ride to Castelmola was just 15 minutes away.
Reaching Taormina at an early morning hour, some stores still closed, I decided to first walk up to Castelmola, a place I had never explored before. The road taking me up to it was made of old cobblestones. Zigzagging up the mountain on this path I began second guessing my sense of direction but decided to continue up to wherever it would take me. Finally, I saw a couple ahead of me, and since they stopped to breath and admire the view, I approached them and asked if I was on the right track. From them I found out that this road is over 2,000 years old, built by Siculians (or Siculans), a population that lived on these lands during prehistoric times (“said by ancient sources to be connected with the Ausons, who settled …. c.1000BC.” –Castelmola.com).
The couple I encountered was Norwegian. We talked and walked, with lots of stops to admire the view (not because we could no longer breath …LOL). Reaching Castelmola we parted ways only to run into each other again in Taormina. Like the women in the joke, we talked for another hour or two. I totally enjoyed their company.
In case you do not know the joke I am referring to, it is about these two women that, after being together for a few years in a jail, they get released and then spend another two years at the jail’s gate talking, as they had apparently not finished all they had to say.
But back to Castelmola, which is a small town with a beautiful piazza near the church and the Bar Turrisi. The bar itself is another tourist magnet for the view, the almond wine and the objects throughout the bar. The other piazza, at the bottom of the Castelmola Castle is a delight for the picture perfect view and relaxing atmosphere. The castle is now closed for renovation so I found my way back to Taormina on another road, a newer one. On this path I knew I had to find a church built in the rock. Asking for it I got to talk and visit a charming small old house by the road, the house and shop of an artist. Tilted, small and old, the front decorated with cactus made of stone, this house was another picturesque point on this road with gorgeous view.
Finally, behind the Madonna della Rocca Church I engaged in another long talk, to an older Italian who was sitting on a bench reading a French book. We covered a diverse array of subjects as old Italian music groups, the story of Al Bano and Romina Power, a bit of politics, the houses he owns, with the view that changes every second and the lion figures he sees in all the rocks.
When I finally got to the church entrance the feeling I had can best be described as one of awe. I did not expect this small, detailed, enchanting apparition. From the outside, the church is just like any other. However the inside is anything but usual. It’s ceiling is still the mountain’s rock and the support columns are painted in pastel colors with small detailed pasterns. I loved this church and I plan to return to it, as now I know its legend as well. It seems like a long time ago, a young shepherd entered this cave with his sheep. On the shine of the lamp he saw a woman with a baby in her arms. Scared, he runs away, leaving his sheep behind. Returning with his parents they find a crack in the rock, and in it they see a painting of the lady with the child.
The church was built in the 12th century and restored in the 1600’s. And still to this day, on the 3rd Sunday of September, believers flood the church and it’s patio to celebrate the Madonna with the child. The view of the Greek Theatre in Taormina is also fantastic from here. Check it out!
