My experience and story in Bocas del Toro does not have as much flavor and adventure as Mike’s. I visited Bocas del Toro in the summer of 2012 and found a very well developed place, that I often compare to Key West, FL.
My trip to Bocas del Toro was on a bus from Panama City. Because of the distance and my plans to visit other places in between and along the way, my bus ride to the islands that day was just from the central, northern town of David to Almirante.
In Almirante I was impressed with the poverty of the region. The bathrooms on the dock were open to the water and the view across was of poor homes and dumped garbage. I wondered if there was any garbage removal service in the area. Lowering myself into the boat I was careful not to get any water droplets on my skin. I could not bear the idea of someone’s excrements mixed with the water that would touch my skin. Not hygienic, and the thought was just not appealing to me, even if I like the people and the kids in the region. The boat ride to the islands was luckily long enough to give me some kind of insurance for going to some beaches and getting in the water of the Bocas del Toro area.
Once on the island of Colón I walked around and found a few centrally located hostels, all having availability. I chose a brightly colored one called Coconut Hostel that seemed a bit less noisy and I got a bed. The owner was nice enough to give me my own room as there were not too many guests. The place was nice and clean but I could hear the conversation in the next room, word for word. No phonic insulation whatsoever. The lobby and the kitchen were used by a few local people to sleep as well as cook in. I personally found this to be a nice gesture on part of the Argentinian (or Chilean?) owner, but it could also be annoying to some guests. If anyone is interested in this location and accommodation you can click here to link to the Coconut Hostel.
I parked my bag in the room, put my flip-flops on, packed a few things in a small backpack and headed out, just walking around. I found out that the area has a few restaurants, tourist agencies and grocery stores. I even found a bakery and a vegetarian restaurant that had an English book-store on the first floor. There is a small expat community here and they meet for wine or dinner at expat owned places, too.
That same day I even had time to get a boat ride to the island across: Isla Carenero. Very close by, you can get there for a small fee and walk the beach and through the small village. The beach narrow and long, you can pick your favorite spot in the sun and play in the water, but you better be careful with your belongings.
The couple from the room next to mine had their things stolen and they seemed to be very short on money. The police got involved and they identified the thief. Yet, they were afraid to clearly point a finger at him as the brother got involved, denying the episode took place. They were feeling threatened. Better to not take much with you on the beach or have someone watching while you go in the water. The community here is very poor and the temptation for the kids to get their hands on some nice phones, cameras and/or money can be too hard to resist. They could be nice and kind people but regard the tourists as lucky and rich folk.
The following day I took a day trip to a few favorite spots. The Red Frog Beach was one. I saw the small frogs in a leaf that some local kids held for pictures. The beach was nice and the water was cooling and pleasant on this humid, hot day.
Another place we stopped at was a restaurant and bar in the middle of the water, were we could take sun and snorkel around. The colorful corals and fish were part of a bright world I very seldom come in contact with.
Sand in my clothes and hot red skin, I returned to the hostel in the afternoon. There are many bars around but all I was after was some good vegetarian food. I found a place near the hostel, in a two floor building with a nice patio, having a good view and a nice breeze. Unfortunately I do not remember the name. The night before I ate at El Ultimo Refugio (The Ultimate Refuge) and the food was good there too. The town is not too big to walk around and find your preferred meal, yet when you are hungry that short street might seem way too long.
The next day I got up for one more beach adventure. This time I took a bus from the park in front of the hostel and got off by a beach on the same island (Isla Colón). The name was Playa Bluff and again, the beach was long and narrow but the water clear and the star fish a perfect site. They reminded me of all those beach pictures I used to see when I first moved to Florida and the association I used to make with the perfect beach paradise. I could not stop myself from taking lots of pictures of these colorful water stars. I recommend you go to see them, too.
great trip, I like, I share ♥
Thank you Jean-Paul, very much appreciated. We are enjoying reading through your posts as well.