ISLANDS

Lipari
EUROPE, ISLANDS, ITALY

Lipari, Aeolian Islands (Isole Eolie)

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Small islands to an island, the Aeolian archipelago is located just north of the island of Sicily. The archipelago is named after the mythological God of the winds, Aeolus, and it is composed of eight volcanic islands:  Vulcano, Lipari, Salina, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi, Panarea and Basiluzzo. A popular destination for the sunny beaches, warmer Tyrrhenian Sea, active volcanoes, mud baths, caves by the sea, as well as the Sicilian food, music and culture, the islands are great to visit, especially in the spring and fall. Most Europeans pour in here in July and August. From March to June,  September, or October, are far better options, as it is not as hot or as crowded. Lipari, the largest of the seven islands, is a charming place which might land a love spell on you as soon as you take those firsts steps onto the port. Going up and down the larger streets or discovering the narrow passages between old buildings, following the smell of fresh baked bread and pasties, visiting the museum or the old picturesque churches can be dangerous for your heart. Lipari is not a big town and if you walk around you will discover and rediscover the same streets over and over again. Relax in its restaurants, caffès, gelato or pastry shops. Take sun and swim in it’s warm water or take a ferry and visit the other islands. Making Lipari the base for easy visits to the other islands of the archipelago would be ideal. One day on each island would make it a seven day vacation for people that can not just relax and rest in one place for too long. The island of Vulcano is smaller but near and it has active volcanoes and mud baths. Stromboli is further but totally worth a visit since it is home to the most active volcanoes in Europe, and the eruption is constant and continuous day and night. For discovering these islands I have to thank the Couchsurfing site, where I found a few great local Sicilian people. Lipari for me would not have happened without Erik, who gave me a room in the beautiful Hotel Giardino sul Mare. Being related to the family that owns the hotel, Erik also introduced me to the wonderful people there. I felt privileged to stay in such a nice property. Seated by the waves that break ashore on a miniature beach, Hotel Giardino sul Mare has a marvelous view of the warm Tyrrhenian Sea. Relaxing by it’s pool under the shade of bougainvilleas and orange trees, and watching the boats that come and go can be just another perfect day in Paradise. From the same patio the view to the left is of my favorite piazza here, the one with the small church surrounded by water and the fisherman’s small boats. A stairway goes from the pool down to the sea and swimming in the clear topaz like water here must be refreshing and attractive for anyone during just a bit warmer of a month. Another option for a longer stay is renting an apartment in town. Erik can help with that too. Click here to visit www.vulcanovacanze.com, a link with more information about the islands of Lipari and Vulcano; how to get there and what to do, as well as the hotels and apartments available for rent. My trip here has had an amusing part as well. Visiting in early November I was not interested in swimming but in exploring the town. Walking around and taking pictures with my head in the clouds, I found myself locked in the town’s cathedral. I was sure that the person in charge had seen me walking in, so I was quiet. But when I was ready to exit both front doors were locked. I “Hellow”-ed a few times in vain and finally concluded I have to look for an alternative door. Happy when I found one that I could open from the inside with no key, I left in a hurry for more island exploration, soon wandering if it was more praying I should have done. Maybe this was the message?    

Bocas del Toro Panama
CENTRAL AMERICA, ISLANDS, Panama

Bocas del Toro: Miha 2012

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My experience and story in Bocas del Toro does not have as much flavor and adventure as Mike’s. I visited Bocas del Toro in the summer of 2012 and found a very well developed place, that I often compare to Key West, FL. My trip to Bocas del Toro was on a  bus from Panama City. Because of the distance and my plans to visit other places in between and along the way, my bus ride to the islands that day was just from the central, northern town of David to Almirante. In Almirante I was impressed with the poverty of the region. The bathrooms on the dock were open to the water and the view across was of poor homes and dumped garbage.  I wondered if there was any garbage removal service in the area. Lowering myself into the boat I was careful not to get any water droplets on my skin. I could not bear the idea of someone’s excrements mixed with the water that would touch my skin.  Not hygienic, and the thought was just not appealing to me, even if I like the people and the kids in the region. The boat ride to the islands was luckily long enough to give me some kind of insurance for going to some beaches and getting in the water of the Bocas del Toro area. Once on the island of Colón I walked around and found a few centrally located hostels, all having availability. I chose a brightly colored one called Coconut Hostel that seemed a bit less noisy and I got a bed. The owner was nice enough to give me my own room as there were not too many guests. The place was nice and clean but I could hear the conversation in the next room, word for word. No phonic insulation whatsoever.  The lobby and the kitchen were used by a few local people to sleep as well as cook in. I personally found this to be a nice gesture on part of the Argentinian (or Chilean?) owner, but it could also be annoying to some guests. If anyone is interested in this location and accommodation you can click here to link to the Coconut Hostel. I parked my bag in the room, put my flip-flops on, packed a few things in a small backpack and headed out, just walking around. I found out that the area has a few restaurants, tourist agencies and grocery stores. I even found a bakery and a vegetarian restaurant that had an English book-store on the first floor. There is a small expat community here and they meet for wine or dinner at expat owned places, too. That same day I even had time to get a boat ride to the island across: Isla Carenero. Very close by, you can get there for a small fee and walk the beach and through the small village. The beach narrow and long, you can pick your favorite spot in the sun and play in the water, but you better be careful with your belongings. The couple from the room next to mine had their things stolen and they seemed to be very short on money.  The police got involved and they identified the thief. Yet, they were afraid to clearly point a finger at him as the brother got involved, denying the episode took place. They were feeling threatened. Better to not take much with you on the beach or have someone watching while you go in the water. The community here is very poor and the temptation for the kids to get their hands on some nice phones, cameras and/or money can be too hard to resist.  They could be nice and kind people but regard the tourists as lucky and rich folk. The following day I took a day trip to a few favorite spots. The Red Frog Beach was one. I saw the small frogs in a leaf that some local kids held for pictures.  The beach was nice and the water was cooling and pleasant on this humid, hot day. Another place we stopped at was a restaurant and bar in the middle of the water, were we could take sun and snorkel around. The colorful corals and fish were part of a bright world I very seldom come in contact with. Sand in my clothes and hot red skin, I returned to the hostel in the afternoon. There are many bars around but all I was after was some good vegetarian food. I found a place near the hostel, in a two floor building with a nice patio, having a good view and a nice breeze.  Unfortunately I do not remember the name. The night before I ate at El Ultimo Refugio (The Ultimate Refuge) and the food was good there too. The town is not too big to walk around and find your preferred meal, yet when you are hungry that short street might seem way too long. The next day I  got up for one more beach adventure. This time I took a bus from the park in front of the hostel and got off by a beach on the same island (Isla Colón). The name was Playa Bluff and again, the beach was long and narrow but the water clear and the star fish a perfect site. They reminded me of all those beach pictures I used to see when I first moved to Florida and the association I used to make with the perfect beach paradise. I could not stop myself from taking lots of pictures of these colorful water stars. I recommend you go to see them, too.  

Bocas del Toro Panama
CENTRAL AMERICA, Chronicles, ISLANDS, Panama, Vagabond

Bocas del Toro: Michael 1997

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Semana Santa, 1997. Holy week. I rolled into dusty little Sixaola at Costa Rica’s southeastern border with Panama Wednesday afternoon on what I had known to be one but turned out to be two flat tires. Having already replaced one, roadside, with the only spare a couple of hours back, this chalked up a total of three. I pulled into a little tire repair shop at the beginning of town. The owner was a kind, easy going gentlemen who quoted me $12 each to change the tires, and $6 total to park the vehicle there until my return from Bocas del Toro on Sunday.  There were few phones and Internet was pretty much non-existent in the area at the time. People just drove to Sixaola and found a place to park for a small fee. Across the border, which consisted of a bridge over a river mouth, small guard hut, and two seat immigration shack was a large store with pretty much anything one would need, including tires. The owner of the taller (tie-yere, mechanic shop) sent his little boy along to carry the tires back. He was a wide eyed, polite and talkative young boy, probably in the range of 7-10 years old. When we reached the Panama side of the bridge, two guards stood duty making sure all were checked at the immigration shack before continuing. Apparently, the one and only immigration officer on duty was out on break. Eventually they returned and we continued to the store, bought the tires, and walked back to the bridge. Of course, the second we walked out of the store someone approached, asked my name, claimed he was also a Michael, and offered to take the tires across the river by boat and carry them to the taller for my young helper. For a fee of course, $5 or $10 or something. I declined, knowing I was well within the $500 per 6 month limit. Nevertheless, he continued to accompany. At the bridge, two guards stood in my path and politely gestured no, stating I could not bring the tires through. While they tried to tell me bringing goods across was not allowed, “Michael”, standing right there with us, assured me he would take them across the river by boat where “they would not see him.” I could not help but break a smile as I looked back the guards and asked them how I was to get my tires into Costa Rica then. They simply pointed to Michael, as if there was nothing odd about what had just been said. No finesse with these scoundrels. Considering my surroundings, the debate was short and soft, simply stating the rules and asking why they would not allow it. A question they would not answer of course. I recognized the gig, thought one of them even bared a resemblance to “Michael,” and noticed a stream of little boats crossing the water below with all kinds of goods. I took my little helper aside and asked if he knew “Michael” and believed he would bring the tires, and he shook his head yes. I gave my helper the money, told him to take it to his father to give to Michael when he delivered the tires. The tires were worth more than the fee I was paying to have them visibly smuggled, so I was not overly confident they would make it (nor that my truck would even be there upon return for that matter). Running short on time and not looking to turn back now, I hired a taxi to make up for lost time getting to the boat dock in Almirante. I was not aware of any boat schedule, but my driver apparently was and he kept the peddle down. The drive was scenic on paved road with indigenous homes dotting the hillsides. Arriving at the dock in Almirante, people were climbing on board the one and only boat. My taxi driver alerted them with yell and motioned for me to go. Within a few steps from the taxi I was swarmed with young, scantily clad barefoot children chattering and holding their hands out. The boat captain was waiving his arms to join them in the boat, so I did not stop, just held my bag a little higher and kept a hand by my pocket and continued to the boat. The children followed right up to the boat. I opened my bag as I was sitting down, pulled out a carton of cookies and watched their eyes widen. I asked them if they would promise to share. Wide eyed and in unison they were all shaking their heads saying “si.” I handed the carton to a little boy in red shorts as the boat was pulling away and sat down before I fell down. The little boy and I retained eye contact for quite some time as the boat pulled away, to his right. Dirty faced, barefoot and squatting at the edge of the dock as far as his knees would bend he held a cookie in his right hand, eating it slowly and watching me with a somewhat blank, curious expression, as if not concerned with the others attacking the carton he held up for them with his left hand. If ever in my life there has ever been a moment where I wished to be a National Geographic photographer, this was it. The image has been clearly ingrained in my mind forever. If I were a talented artist I swear the painting would make the cover. JT, long time expat, travel agent, and good friend in San José had been recommending for some time I visit Bocas del Toro, before it changed too much. Making reservations was not a typical practice in the region, and somewhat of a strange one to the locals. Bocas del Toro at the time had one hotel, and a couple of rooms could be found for rent on the main island of Colón.

Mykonos Windmills
GREECE, Greek Islands, ISLANDS

Mykonos

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Mykonos was our last overnight stop along our island hopping escapade, which began two weeks earlier on the large island of Crete. Sad, because there are so many beautiful and interesting islands to see. Two weeks through the Greek Islands simply just does not cover it. However, two weeks is enough to get a taste and have a wonderful experience, so much better than one week or not at all. So we will just have to refer to it as “this trip” indicating it goes on the future journey list for a round two someday. Probably more accurate than “hopping” would be “floating” through the Greek Islands. While there are flights available, they pretty much all take you back through Athens, so it is generally quicker and cheaper to take the ferry between islands. We arrived at the port of Mykonos by ferry, mid-morning, just a short couple hour ride from the island of Paros (another good one). Our host from Hotel Jason picked us up and brought us to the hotel to get checked in, kindly showing us some sites and making recommendations. (The people that run Hotel Jason are great. Click the link to read our review and see photos). After dropping off our bags in the room and getting some directions we headed for the downtown area. Mykonos, very popular with tourists for several aspects, is a little more expensive than some of the other islands. We were told Mykonos has an active nightlife scene, therefore in conjunction with its beautiful, historic and picturesque setting, is alluring to multiple age groups. The name alone has a ring to it that beckons to be put on the must see list. In true Greek Island travel-magazine-photo style, Mykonos displays the clean white architecture with contrasting colors, separated by walkways with outlined stone to accentuate the look. Colorful, healthy bougainvillea grow large out of decorative pots and up over restaurant patios like many of the islands. One of Mykonos’ most quintessential landmarks, a row of 16th-20th century windmills look out over its coastline. Who could visit the Greek Islands without seeing these? In the evening, Mykonos was alive and vibrant with interesting shops full of spectacular art, jewelry, clothing, and outdoor cafés. Speaking of picturesque, we walked along the coastal cafés at the end of the day looking for our spot to watch the sunset. We came upon a couple very formally dressed and affectionate, with a professional photographer taking what must have been wedding or honeymoon photos. Our namesake Miha, being the natural born fun loving and adventurous comedian she is, decided it would be funny and add to their memories if she snuck around behind the wall they were posing in front of, and popped into their picture with a comical gesture. We were having a good laugh just at the notion of it, but how were they going to feel about it? They might not immediately appreciate it, imposing on their romantic moment, while paying a professional for photos. But let’s face it . . . wouldn’t it make for more interesting discussion, more memorable moments and photos to look back on in the future? Wouldn’t they recall their shock and laugh for years to come when they look at that photo? We felt it was a justifiable favor. However in the end she did not, and we created more of our own laughs around the topic discussing how she did not but we could say she did, and continued to embellish the story between us. The would-be fictitious story we never told. Would that couple have kept the photo and laughed about it in the years following? We think so. We are. Ahhh, it is the things in life you don’t do that you live to regret. On to Athens. Photos from Mykonos Island:

Sunset Negril Jamaica
Caribbean, ISLANDS, Jamaica

Sunset in Negril Jamaica

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Behind every sunset is an infinite number of untold stories. With each one sets an ending to a day, a chapter, and billions of thoughts and events to reflect upon. Maybe just temporarily put to rest for the following day. While one part of the world is winding down, another is winding up. Sunlight to starlight duties are handed off in transactions of nature and occupations. Sunsets and all they encompass have always been favorite of mine (more so than a sunrise and the work ahead it might remind of). And sunsets on the water are always nice, in my book, epitomizing a sense of tranquility and – travel of course.  On Jan’s most recent trip to Jamaica she visited Negril and captured these sunset photos:   Click here to see more Jamaica photos from her other trips.

Final descent over beach in Jamaica
Caribbean, ISLANDS, Jamaica

Jamaica

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Miha has traveled to Jamaica, however it has been a few years. 1996 in fact, while working on a cruise ship. The cruise ship had been chartered by a nudist colony, providing for an interesting and humurous story all it’s own. Off the ship Miha visited Ocho Rios and, with [clothed] passengers, enjoyed the walk all the way up Dunn’s River Falls, in addition to fond memories of a marvelous botanical garden set somewhere up on the hills. Michael has never been to Jamaica, but feels the itch. Combine an age old Caribbean rum factory, world renowned coffee, clear blue waters and a sunken port one time frequented by Captain Henry Morgan, and it just beckons travel. Jan travels to Jamaica quite frequently. For nearly two years now, Jan has been exploring Jamaica one week at a time, making the trip about every four to six weeks. With each visit she ventures into new territory, both on and off the beaten path. Some of Jan’s photos are shared in the galleries below. Click on the individual photo to read her comments. Fisherman’s Beach, Jamaica Beach by Sangster International Airport Miscellaneous: Beach, Appleton Estate, Duncans, Trelawny

ISLANDS, South Pacific

Tahiti

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How would you feel if your job called you at 4:20am to advise that you were flying out at noon the same day, on a trip to Tahiti? Would the below images invade your mind? Let’s say you would have to pack in a hurry and take a flight across the country to position for working an eight and a half hour flight to Tahiti. Let’s say that, like me, you are stopped in the jet way, while connecting flights, by the Drug Enforcement Administration, because your flight ticket to LA was bought last minute and one way. The questions being asked by the agent you find to border funny with ridiculous and he goes through your bags right there, in front of everyone boarding the plane. Would you be upset? Knowing that you are on the way to Tahiti and you will have 26 hours in one of the most beautiful and expensive corners of this world? Paid trip, hotel and breakfast! Well… I have to admit… tired and anxious to find space for my bag in the overhead bin (so I do not have to check in my uniform and manual) the approach at the boarding door was not my favorite. Yet, a day and a half later, after serving, chit-chatting and laughing with the cruise-line passengers we transported there, we  got to unload our luggage in to one of the most luxurious, and therefore expensive, resorts in Papeete, Tahiti. The “glamour and pains” of a life as a Flight Attendant paid off this time. The Intercontinental Tahiti Resort in Papeete is one place I would not feel like spoiling myself in, if it were not for my job paying for it.  In French Polynesia, lands of lush vegetation set in shades of topaz and turquoise surrounding waters, snorkeling and scuba diving are as divine as the colors of the corals and fish, a surreal apparition through the sun light reflected in the water. All of it enchants your vision while the sound of the waves and fish chewing on corals and plants delights and surprises your hearing. The Tahiti Resort expands on 32 acres of land by the lagoon, surrounded by green plants and colorful flowers. The infinity pools, spas, restaurants, bars, tiki bars and hammocks hanging around the resort are especially designed to enchant your senses, pamper you and help your wallet lose weight. Oh … I feel so spoiled! A bungalow over the water would have been magic but how could I be so picky!? Was I born in a castle? The room I was given has a patio facing the lagoon. I walked straight from it, barefooted, through the rest of the resort. I did this again at sunrise, even though the sun rises on the other side of the island. A wonderful view through my patio doors, great wooden floor in the room and marble counter top in the bathroom, these rooms will set you back about $250 per night, in a regular night. The bungalow would just about double the speed of your slimming wallet. The breakfast buffet, an ample choice of fresh-juicy fruits and fresh juice, scrambled eggs, dairies, breads, pastries, cereals, etc. is “only” about $37. One of my colleagues would have said: “Do not worry girl, they will not make money out of me”. Sorry to report that I could not eat enough to make them lose money on me. Cry, girl, cry! The explorer in me woke up at 5am for a sunrise that came to be on the other side of the island and about 45 minutes later. No complaints. It colored in picturesque clouds that reflected in our infinity pool for a super picture. The same explorer could not pass on the opportunity to take the public bus to town. Ticket was 200 (about US$2.50) one way and there was not a lot to see. It is not just the resort that is expensive, but most everything here. Time and money permitting, a trip to the mountains in the background of town, and the waterfalls from the magazine pictures would have been great. Yet, all in all, my 26 hours here were well spent walking barefoot around the resort, enjoying the pools, taking lots of pictures, going downtown, and having a great breakfast. Not enough sleep, but knowing that we are taking a commercial flight back I figured that I can sleep in the plane.  Note: Beware of Tahiti Nui Airline. They kept the plane’s cabin so cold that I had three blankets on me. At least they can provide that.  

greek islands
EUROPE, GREECE, Greek Islands, ISLANDS

Greek Islands

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Which islands to choose? There are so many. We made a valiant effort over two weeks to see as many as we could, however without sacrificing the enjoyment of spending the time to see what each one had to offer. Each island was unique, with a history and archeological finds and micro-cultures to call it’s own, while still intertwined with the overall history and legends that make Greece special. Crete is a large island with numerous archeological sites to visit, beautiful beaches (the water is colder than you expect), olive farms, and picturesque towns. Santorini is home to the iconic blue domed roof white buildings. Mykonos draws a younger, more active crowd than some and it is a charming island. Also home to the centuries old windmills. Paros was a recommended stop along the way. Conveniently located in a ferry ride between Santorini and Mykonos, caught us by surprise with its charming post card corridors and a pastry shop no one could have the will to pass by without stepping in. A short boat ride around the corner takes you to Anti-Paros, a quiet charming little island also known for being location to a home of actors Tom and Rita. A short ride from Athens on the “bullet boat” is the worthwhile ride to the unspoiled, quiet and beautiful island of Hydra.  With an impressive mix of architecture from ancient to modern, and the absence of cars, this is a special island, with a quiet, relaxing atmosphere . Two weeks was not enough. Yet, with all there is to see between the numerous islands plus the Greek mainland itself, I wonder if two years would be enough . . .  

EUROPE, GREECE, Greek Islands, ISLANDS

Santorini

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For the obvious, picturesque iconic bright white with blue domed roofs image that dote the cover and ads of travel magazines – and location of the famous movie Summer Lovers that implanted the image for certain generations, it is Santorini. Located along what remains of the top of a volcanic rim jutting out of the Agean sea you will find what you are looking for here. Blue water, blue sky, beautiful sunsets and numerous photo opportunities. A fairly small island, it is easy, inexpensive, and quick to get around on by bus. Note that there is more to see on this island than just Oia and the main town, with a diverse range of beach colors and scenery. Arrivals by boat and tours require a steep hike from the water to the top of the rim and it s not for the feint of heart. However in some locations if you do not wish to carry luggage up 480 steps (requiring a few steps in between) there are donkeys or a fernicular available. We arrived by ferry with a reservation to stay at Villa Manos, who provide transportation to and from the port. The friendly couple that operate this hostel / hotel do a wonderful job with recommendations, atmosphere and accomodations. While not in a white, domed roof location, a view of the sea is present, balconies and tables, large pool, only a few minutes you can count on one hand to the main tourist areas, and 1/10 to 1/20 the price. Be sure to take the full day 3-island Santorini tour they recommend.

Africa, Cape Verde, ISLANDS

Island of Sal, Cape Verde

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My colleagues and I spent relaxing days in the island of Sal, Cape Verde. We were flying there in the beginning of the first decade of the years 2000. One way flights to Angola, straight from Texas, were too long so Cape Verde was used as a stop for refueling, catering and crew changes. At the time, the plane was not yet modified to do the 16 hour flights in one shot. Cape Verde islands, strategically located in the mid-Atlantic Ocean about 450 kilometers (300 mi.) off the west coast of Africa, provided a great break for us. We used to stay two weeks each month there, flying turns to Luanda, Angola. The island of Sal is level and very dry. At the time, few new hotels were built by the beach, but there were not hoards of tourists around, as in other popular destinations we traveled to. We spent many days just taking in sun, bothered by flies at the pool, or slapped by sand carried around by winds on the near-by beach. We used to bring canned foods with us from home, and a lot of bottled water – as the food was not so great (or safe) there, and often both the food and water were contaminated. Many people suffered from an upset stomach or diarrhea because of something they have eaten or drank, and that is no fun at all. Internet was also hard to connect to back then and a phone call to the US was awfully expensive. So we were disconnected from our normal lives and lived like were in an Robinson Crusoe type of vacation, dieting and loosing weight (not always by choice), but looking good, slim and tanned afterwards. Many nights the discos in the village were open and we danced to the rythm of the ’80s,often until daybreak. Sometimes drinking would make otherwise proper people behave as nuts, and the stories were told again and again until they would become twisted, and turned to ridicule, as everyone wanted the “fun” piece of the “news”. What else is there to do in such an island? LOL

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