ROMANIA

On my way to Cluj-Napoca just a month ago I ventured at what others and myself consider not too safe of an adventure: hitch-hiking. Trying to stay open to the possibilities, and trusting the Universe to send the right people my way I crossed new borders, the borders of old fears. It worked magically. Cars stopped easily and the drivers, and in some cases the other passengers, were very nice people. People ready to help, people with stories, people interested in stories. In one instance the driver seemed unsure he wanted to take me. Almost like he did not know why he had even stopped. He was grumpy and his teenage daughter was in the seat next to him. He picked me up to take me to a town just 30-40 minutes away. When I realized from his phone conversations that he was going to the town I hoped to reach today (about 4 hours away), I dared to ask: “Do you actually go all the way to Cluj?” At his “Yes”, reply I said: “Me too. Should I dare to ask you to take me all the way there?” His answer came fast: “Now you are in the car, aren’t you?” Hee! Hee! I was! Nice man. Such conversation skills… So for a while I sat quiet. Sometimes he would ask direct, short questions, where the answer expected seemed to be only the Yes or No kind. At some point, getting enough information from his phone conversations, and realizing he is trying to solve other people’s problems through the phone, I decided to break the seemingly set rules. I understood he travels a lot and drives long distances to many other countries as well. I concluded he must be nice since he makes a lot of phone calls for others, so I decided to tell the truth about my travels and my life. The road from that point on became a breeze. Neither of us in the car noticed how the time had passed and the driver asked if I would return from Cluj today, as he would like to take me back. He even asked jokingly for my small backpack as he said it must have wings. Strange things happen and I love the adventure! I left some money in the car for the ride. He said not to but it is a normal practice in Romania and the train ticket would have cost me anyway. A lots of the drives that took me some distances did not want money, yet some do. Some stop to take people so they can cover part of their gas expense. Cluj is a clean and nice town. I have relatives there and I enjoyed tremendously visiting with them. Stories were told until late into the night as we do not get to see each other often. The bonus of the trip to Cluj was the salt mine in Turda. The inside lake with the boats, mini golf, concert arena, bowling and a tennis court, the elevator and all the rest was a first for me and I was amazed and enchanted. I would surely recommend visiting if  in the area.  

This important Transylvanian castle is one of my favorites. I remember a visit there as a child, with a bus full of other kids my age. The grayish and somber memory may be explained by the torture chamber and the history books of my school years. If you visit, you will find the torture chamber just to the left of the entrance and you will not need a vivid imagination, as the torture instruments on display are accompanied by written explanations and drawings, not to mention the audio playing in the background. Hunyad Castle, also referred to as Corvin Castle, is believed to have been built during the 14th or the 15th century. Researchers have not come to an agreement on it. See: http://www.castelulcorvinilor.ro/en/2011/istoria-si-povestea/ What is 100 years of history for a castle? Like 10 years in a human life? Gothic style castle, Renaissance architectural elements, neogothic gallery and staircase added during the 19th century; the place has changed and transformed over the ages, through restorations done in the spirit of the times. I would love to be able to visit for just one day every 50 years going back in time. I would promise that I would try to sneak a photo camera with me, so you could see the look of the place and the people that lived in it back then. I would even tell you the story of their dramas, joys and behavior. What they wore, what they ate, how they thought and whom they tortured. Auch! About the rest of the speculations and myths, as well as hours and entrance fees, you can read here, on the main castle website. I leave you now in the company of the pictures.

On an unusually cold summer morning I decided to take the train to Deva. In the train station there, I found a bus that took me to Hunedoara, where the castle is, but to continue on, to the Prislop Monastery, I had to wait on the street for another bus. The waiting time, I found out, was over an hour, so people were hitchhiking. Being by myself I was lucky to find a ride soon, as the first car that stopped was a small merchandise carrying truck and had just one seat besides the driver. Winding hill roads and about 25 minutes later I got off in Silvasu de Jos and began to walk on the direction of the monastery. The first 3 km were between the two villages Silvasu de Jos and Silvasu de Sus (jos=down, sus=up). The road was going uphill. Not sure where I will spend the coming night I looked for accommodation on my way and I was pleased to notice that there were a few homes that advertised rooms available (pensiune). Past the last village I had another 4 km to go. The road was going higher and a fine rain surrounded me. Umbrella in hand, small back pack on my shoulders and determination to rich the place by foot, I did not signaled any passing car to stop. I did not want a ride at this point. Somehow I decided that since I did not get my breakfast yet this morning, and because I am going to a special place, I will fast on the way there (except for the few small fruits along the road) and make it there by foot. Prislop Monastery is well known to Romanians. Built during the 14th century, it was since, many times reconditioned. In 1762 it was burned down at the order of General Bukow. The Orthodox monks were expelled. Legend tells that the water in it’s creek healed people throughout history. The monastery was closed down by the communist regime in 1959 and with difficulty reopened in 1976. The Holy Father Arsenie Boca is buried here. He spent 41 years of his life at Prislop Monastery, restructuring it, remodeling it, also painting and sculpting. He is highly regarded and very much loved by Romanians. Many visitors come daily to the church and the burying site. Week-ends and special occasion days can be very busy or even crowded. A few Images from Prislop Monastery:

After my flight from Orlando to London changed course and airline due to a delay that would have caused a missed connection in Chicago, I ended up in Frankfurt instead. Thankfully, as the previous itinerary would have left me stranded in Chicago, and taken me on a grueling route all the way to Kuwait, with an estimated 17 hour layover to then find my way back to Romania with little sleep. From Frankfurt I took the first available train to Arad, Romania and had a place in a couchette (sleeping wagon), sharing the cabin with just one other lady. After a nice, refreshing train ride I arrived in Budapest, where I changed trains after a few hours in the main station. After visiting my father and his wife for only one night I then took another train to my grandparent’s. My dear sweet grandmother was very ill. My aunt is taking care of them and she was afraid that this time we have to say goodbye to our 85 year old grandma. Yet, as we learned not long after, she is not ready to leave and her plans were to get better and help my aunt around the house again. The village where I spent all my vacations as a child now had knee high grass along the roads as it had been raining a lot before my arrival. The storks are still making their nests on the electric poles, but the village is changing as even more than before, children and grandchildren are making their life in the city. When a house loses its owner to death, the only interested party to buy it seems to be the gypsies. They went to western European countries and did what they normally do. They returned with money and are now building big homes, sometime with the look of castles. Passing through some places in Romania I seen huge homes with towers and roofs with unusual motifs. However in my grandparent’s village the gypsies that buy there do not seem to build that opulently. Anyhow, I spent five days there and my seven year old niece, Andra, accompanied me everywhere. She is a bright and affectionate child whose company everyone enjoys. She likes to help around the house and loves animals, just as her mother did as a kid. Last year she made a few funny reportage around the house using my cousin’s (her aunt) mobile phone. Unfortunately she moved the phone a lot so the image is shaky and of course… is all in Romanian. Yet, she sounds confident and like a true reporter, except for the funny comments. One example is the comment about the house as compared to her house in another village, as she said hers is not as rundown and is even funnier. In the view of the phone is my cousin and she presents her by her name, with all the marital history. On one of her “reportages” she began talking about my cousin but stopped abruptly. What happened behind the scene is that my cousin threatened to take the mobile phone from her if she continued. Maybe I will post the video here after some editing, but for now the quality is not the best as the phone is not an expensive one. Also the language is not English.   A few days into the village time I decided to take a day trip to Hunedora to visit the famous castle (Castelul Hunizilor-also Corvinilor) and Prislop Monastery (see post for description and photos). After a few days back in the village Andra and I set out to enjoy the sunshine and take in some swimming and Langoṣ in Arad and visit some other places. My 20013 summer trip to Romania was a good one.  I have been fortunate enough to see much of this wonderful world, and that alone rejuvenates my interest in exploring and revisiting new and previously known to me destinations in Romania. This trip included the ancient ruins of Sarmizegetusa Regia, Cluj and the salt mine of Turda, Arad, and Timisoara.

Like many major university cities around the world Timișoara exudes a vibrant atmosphere with a clean, green, and well maintained landscape in the areas surrounding the campus. Home to Universitatea Politehnica Timisoara (University of Timisoara), like most university cities, Timișoara comes complete with scenic streets and plazas with the usual restaurants and outdoor café dining areas. Timișoara has a modern downtown with a shopping mall that rivals that of any in the world. Impressively progressive yet significantly historic, Timișoara’s beauty and heritage place it among an elite league of university towns, holding rights to more than one “Europe’s first” and “Romania’s first” claims. It is said Timișoara was the first mainland European city to utilize electric street lamps, and the second in the world after New York. Timișoara was the first city in Romania, and second in Europe, to use the horse drawn trams; Romania’s first city to develop international routes through the train system; and home of Romania’s first canal, channeled out of the Bega River, that would create access to the Black Sea and foster increased commercial trade with other parts of Europe. Timișoara also played a significant role in the long overdue December, 1989 revolution, that finally liberated the people of Romania. Spend a day walking  Timișoara and you will discover plazas and streets lined with ornate, historic architecture dating back to the 1200’s. Paying close attention to surroundings will reveal a unique, interesting and tasteful blending of centuries old structures with modern day uses. As an example, Timișoara was also once a fortified city, and where the thick wall still stands today, modern roads pass through it arches. Stores and cafés are even built into some of the archways. See a large brick wall in Timișoara? Take a closer look and let your eyes settle in on what is going on. Admiring exclusive old European architecture from one of the historic plazas? Take a closer look and notice the very distinct detail in the designs that adorn the turrets and roof edges, and entrance doors. We took the morning train from Arad to Timișoara, started with some fresh breads and pastries, and began with a visit to the historic church. We then walked the plazas, the twon, took photos, and met a friend for an extended lunch at an outdoor Italian café next to the fortification wall. The weather was beautiful. For the remainder of the afternoon we walked the University campus where I was given a first hand account of life before, during, and after the revolution, and what it was like to be a student here when it broke out. A walk through the market and another plaza rounded out just in time to meet family for a chauffered visit through more of the city and a dinner of authentic Romanian cuisine at local favorite on the outskirts of town. Timișoara is located in western Romania in the Transylvania region, a fist stop for some visitors en route from Belgrade. There is an airport in Timișoara, however the typical entrance for international travelers into Romania is usually either through the south central capitol city of Bucharest, or via train after flights into Budapest, Hungary. Whatever the entry and departure route, be sure to make a stop over if possible in the progressive-throughout-the-centuries university city of Timișoara . Photos from Timișoara, Romania:

Everyone has heard of Transylvania. In addition to the fame surrounding Dracula and his castle, the Transylvania region is home to many beautiful towns, such as Brasov, Timisoara, Arad, and Sibiu. A journey through the Transylvania region of Romania could not be considered complete without a visit to Sibiu. Dubbed in 2007 as the European Cultural Capital, Sibiu is a beautiful city, once walled-in with a mixed historical architecture native to Romania itself, combined with that of the Austro-Hungarian emporium, and modern day. Sibiu has two very picturesque town plazas; Piaţa Mare and Piaţa Mica (large plaza and small plaza), laden with artisan stone foundations, accent lighting and the symbolic clock tower. Right in the heart of the plaza is the famous “liar’s bridge”, earning its name by way of a beautiful view that has enticed many romantics over the years to profess eternal love. As one might guess, the promised “forever” is, for some, replaced with the accusation of “liar” at some point in the future. Piaţa Mare and Piaţa Mica are adjacent and easily passed between on foot. Piaţa Mare is a large open square surrounded by colorful buildings with roofs which give the appearance of eyes looking over the plaza that taunt a child’s fairy tale imagination. Piaţa Mare has a museum, a water fountain in the middle, and brings on an additional layer of picturesque appeal as night falls and the plaza lighting comes on. Piaţa Mica is attractive with patios, restaurants and outdoor dining in a historic setting that has hosted visitors for centuries. Piaţa Mare and Piaţa Mica are certainly attractive, however there is much more of Sibiu to see as well. Leave the ancient cobblestone neighborhoods and walk the city along modern streets. Notice the old fortress walls you pass through, and venture towards the park and into a neighborhood architecture and landscape of yet another era. Just outside of Sibiu is the Complexul National Muzeal ASTRA “Astra National Museum Complex,” which is an all-day must see. The outdoor walking museum is vast with homes that have been transported in from all regions of the country, displaying and preserving Romania’s diverse regional heritage. You can enter the homes, and the “retirees” who proudly maintain them will happily explain to you how they were built and the tools used. Entrance fees range from 3.5 to 15 lei depending on age, about US $1 to $4.50. Get an early start and plan to spend an entire day. Be sure to have plenty of space available on the camera card (we took over 400 pictures!). En route back to the heart of Sibiu from the museum is a large park, great for the walk and people watching. During our stay at Hostel Felinarul in Sibiu, we met fellow travelers who, when asked why Romania, stated they wished to see it before too many changes take place. Traveling through Eastern Europe it is common to meet travelers who will tell you that they have seen much of Western Europe in the past, so are now visiting the eastern region before it is overrun with tourist development. This statement was a common thread we heard echoed by travelers we met not only during our stay in Sibiu, but also in Budapest, Brasov, and Bucharest.  As former communist Eastern European countries now have open borders, it is possible and easy to visit them, and great time to do so. Hundreds, if not thousands of years of history and culture dot the lands. Romania is a perfect example; a beautiful country, rich with a diverse landscape and architecture. Ranked No. 8 on Forbes Magazine’s list of Europe’s Most Idyllic Places to Live, and easy to get to via train, bus, or car, Sibiu should definitely be on the list. Images from Sibiu: