EUROPE – Page 8 – Travels With Miha

Santorini

Michael / July 7, 2012

For the obvious, picturesque iconic bright white with blue domed roofs image that dote the cover and ads of travel magazines – and location of the famous movie Summer Lovers that implanted the image for certain generations, it is Santorini. Located along what remains of the top of a volcanic rim jutting out of the Agean sea you will find what you are looking for here. Blue water, blue sky, beautiful sunsets and numerous photo opportunities. A fairly small island, it is easy, inexpensive, and quick to get around on by bus. Note that there is more to see on this island than just Oia and the main town, with a diverse range of beach colors and scenery. Arrivals by boat and tours require a steep hike from the water to the top of the rim and it s not for the feint of heart. However in some locations if you do not wish to carry luggage up 480 steps (requiring a few steps in between) there are donkeys or a fernicular available. We arrived by ferry with a reservation to stay at Villa Manos, who provide transportation to and from the port. The friendly couple that operate this hostel / hotel do a wonderful job with recommendations, atmosphere and accomodations. While not in a white, domed roof location, a view of the sea is present, balconies and tables, large pool, only a few minutes you can count on one hand to the main tourist areas, and 1/10 to 1/20 the price. Be sure to take the full day 3-island Santorini tour they recommend.

EUROPE, GREECE, Greek Islands, ISLANDS

Crete

Michael / May 30, 2012

Meeting up with Miha in Athens after finishing her assignment in Cyprus, we flew together to Crete, where a car had been arranged through Manolis, Director of Sales at the new Gran Meliá Resort & Luxury Villas Daios Cove, just a little down the road from Agios Nikolaos, and brother of my co-worker in Florida. Arriving at the Gran Meliá, we were treated like royalty from beginning to end. The resort is located in a quiet, picturesque secluded cove. Manolis and staff were spectacular, with no detail missed. Crete is a fairly large island, with ruins, historical sites, and places to visit scattered throughout. We stayed in Crete for 3-4 days, drove much of it, and did not even begin to see all of the locations, such as Zeus’s cave. From the main city of Heraklion, it is only a short 20-30 minute bus ride from the town circle to the ruins of Knossos, and well worth the trip. Tours are available, however a bus ride and personally paid entrance will get you there and back for much less than half the price. Downtown Heraklion boasts plenty of outdoor cafés in the town center, or you can dine along the water with a view of the old fortress and carouse the cobblestone streets. Travel stores are numerous and you can book your ferry to the next island from most of them. Almost all flights return first to Athens, and then depart for one of the islands. The ferrys are less expensive, and considering a would be lay over in Athens with the flights, no time is lost. Images from Crete:

Croatia (Yugoslavia), EUROPE

Croatia (Yugoslavia)

Miha / May 20, 2012

Dusty memories of old times and old style pictures… clear memories of events charged with warm feelings. Another life, another time… Yugoslavia was one of the first countries I visited after the fall of the communist regime in Eastern Europe. I was still a college student and during summer vacation I joined my father and his wife in an adventure a lot of my countryman embarked upon: visiting Yugoslavia on little money and selling things along the way. We took long train rides and slept in trains and open markets carrying heavy bags, most with no wheels. We made unexpected friends even with no common language, and experienced the bond free traders of no riches share. I still remember a young myself, in Belgrade (Serbia), opening a can of sardines by a market’s public faucet, cutting my finger in the can’s metal and coming back to my senses in a woman’s arms. I still remember all the fresh cheese and tomatoes I got free of charge after that. The small farmers were there to feed me and the bond created felt wonderful. I also recall a trip further South, to a region of great beauty, a place by mountains and palm trees, by the Adriatic Sea. The small port was in the Montenegro region, now its own country. My brother came along that time and at dawn we left our parents in the market to sell things, while we visited the town’s fair market. We returned to see our parents, in their late 40’s then, sleeping between two Persian rugs looking like a funny sandwich. Somehow again, with no shared language, they managed to make new friends and borrow for the night the products others were selling. Another time, my brother and I went there by ourselves and we got thick sponge mattresses so we did not have to sleep on the cold hard cement surface of the market’s tables. All the people we met then touched our lives in a subtle way and I hope that we became better human beings thanks to those forgotten faces but unforgotten experiences and feelings. Oh… how I cherish those memories. If I had money then no such experience would have enriched my travel life. I returned again, many years later, this time having more money and such, a new kind of experience. A colleague of mine and I had a few days to spare after a work trip that ended in Rome. We chose Dubrovnik- Croatia for exploration. It was a great experience then too. Just different. We took the train from Rome to Bari and a ferry to Dubrovnik. We used a Croatian company I will not recommend as my colleague had indigestion from the water and the cabins were not that nice. But look at me now! Picky about a ferry when I used to sleep on market tables! How easy we get spoiled by money and better conditions! Well… anyway… I am spoiled now! To some degree! 🙂 In the port of Dubrovnik lots of locals were waiting to meet tourists so they would rent their homes or apartments. We found a little furnished one bedroom house within walking distance to the city at an acceptable price. Dubrovnik is expensive but a beautiful fortress city. It is called the “Pearl of the Atlantic” for a reason and it is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. For history and more pictures please visit: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/95 I recommend visiting Croatia whether you have the money for a luxury hotel, a hostel with no A/C, or if you have to sleep outside. Unfortunately I cannot give you tips on the local market’s cement tables anymore. I graduated to something else. To what? Not sure, it always depends. Yet, I would still enjoy going back in space and time, to a poor but young(er) me and to my beginnings of a nomadic life! Just for a few days.

EUROPE, ROMANIA

Brasov Romania

Michael / May 8, 2012

Self proclaimed “Possibly the Best City in the World” it is easy to see why Brasov, Romania is a popular destination. Nestled within the surrounding mountains with a Hollywood style BRASOV sign overlooking a colorful town “square” and cobblestone pathways, I found no reason to actively debate the claim.The downtown area is cleanly landscaped and maintained, with interesting mountain views in three directions and a colorful mix of architecture from different influences. Even the Post Office and government buildings are picturesque. Like many old towns in Romania, enticing stories support historic landmarks, and Brasov is no different. Standing in great proportion at the edge of Piata Stafului, the charming town square, is the iconic Gothic Black Church – built during the late 14th -15th century, and noted to be the largest between Vienna and Istanbul. The black soot color remains from the great fire of a 1689 invasion. Piata Stafului, the town center is charming and colorful with stylish architecture similar to that of the attractive Sibiu, however seated within a crescent of surrounding hills that enhance the view. At the recommendation of other travelers we stayed at Hostelworld reader’s popular choice Kismet Dao Hostel. Like many, there is always room for improvement, however the environment was relaxed and welcoming, easy going, and it was a short, scenic walk to the piata, shops, stores and ever present fresh pastry stands. A short bus ride up the mountain brings you to the little mountain area and ski village Poiana Brasov, which is well worth the visit. It is only a short ride up the winding mountain road. If you have a car you can stop at some of the vistas for view of Brasov from above, with its colorful roofs and church steeples. Unless in winter, skiing and lodging there, Poiana Brasov is great for just a few hours round trip to relax, enjoy the mountains and an outdoor lunch or dinner.

GREECE

Athens

Michael / May 8, 2012

Athens is impressive. For those whose who dig ancient history, vivid mythological stories and a myriad of bigger than life Gods, Athens will tantalize the imagination. As well, for those academics who enjoy the ambiance of university surroundings, there is a radiant energy in the streets below the Parthenon. Walking the cobblestone streets and park in the cool evening, lush with green trees, the illuminated massive Parthenon looks down from atop the hill giving off an ora that makes one feel as though they should kneel and offer homage to Zeus and the gang right now right there on the spot. The streets expanding out from the area are lined with outdoor tables and open air cafés, bustling with people and music. Funny enough, we experienced quite a challenge in finding an authentic place with Greek bazouki music and dancing. Walking all of the table lined streets, North American dance and classic rock played from virtually every location. We finally settled on one that had a different tune playing, which turned out to be an African song, followed by American modern jazz. In any event, the service was friendly like always, the food was fresh, and the traditional shots of free Raki were kindly offered. Nearly everywhere you walk in downtown Athens, if you are paying attention – and especially along the roads jetting out from the University and Parthenon area and plaza – you will come across historical ruins and discovery of an ancient underground city at nearly every excavation site for new construction.

Austria, EUROPE

Austria

Miha / May 7, 2012

As I love mountains, lakes and clean places Austria is one of my favorites for the summer months. I do not ski and I live in Florida for a reason. LOL My first trip to Austria was just by passing on the way to Paris but we did stop and spent a few nights there on the way to France and back. I fell in-love with the view and I returned by myself during the summer a few years later. The first time was during the spring of 2003. With my mother and an organized tour group we stopped in Vienna and visited St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the famous Vienna Opera, Hofburg –the Imperial Palace, the Parliament building and the beautiful and colorful Hundertwasser Village, a must see if you like color and architecture. We also stopped in Melc to see the monastery and in Salzburg for Mozart’s house and the sites of the movie “The Sound of Music”. Later, in the summer of 2007, I chose a nice and inexpensive B&B (pension) in St. Johann in Tirol and spent five wonderful days exploring the surrounding mountains. See the images and ask yourself if this might be a place you would like to be. If you like hiking, taking in sun by waterfalls, relaxing in nature or simply love Austrian beer and festivities this might be the place for you.

EUROPE, France

France

Miha / May 6, 2012

France we first visited, my mother and I, in April-May 2003. It was the destination my mother chose for a vacation together, since she was denied a tourist visa to visit me at my new house in the USA. The trip she chose in 2003 was a 10-14 day trip throughout European countries with Paris as the final destination. We crossed and briefly stopped in Hungary, Austria, Germany and Luxembourg on our way to Paris. Beautiful view along the way, in a long and tiring bus ride with a great guide and many other tourists from Bucharest. On the way to Paris we had the chance to visit two of the most impressive and beautiful cathedrals of the Gothic style, the Notre-Dame Cathedrals in Reims and in Strasbourg. Of course, Notre-Dame de Paris was undoubtedly the most visited and popular of them all as it was also located in one of the most desirable and romantic cities on Earth. As most tourists, we visited L’Arc de Triomphe and strolled on the Champs-Elysées, visited the Louvre Museum and Musée d’Orsay, seen the Palace of Versailles and the Eiffel Tower, took pictures on daylight and came back at night, took the ride to the top of the tower and enjoyed the city view from above. There is so much to see in Paris and we could use more days for it all. A Moulin Rouge Cancan would definitely be of great interest when I will go back to Paris. I also long to savor again the ice cream filled crepes in the company of my mother, watching the artists and their drawings and paintings in the relaxed bohemian Place du Tertre, a short distance from Mortmarte’s Romanesque-Byzantine style Basilique du Sacré-Coeur. Those were our few relaxed moments in the rush to see more and more of the city and it’s churches, museums and palaces. I’d love to be able to go back in time for a few more of those Parisian minutes in the 2003’s spring sun, enjoying the crepes, with my mother again.

EUROPE, Spain

Southern Spain

Miha / March 12, 2012

Barcelona was the first big city I visited in Spain. I fell in love, pure and simple, with Antoni Gaudi’s architecture at first sight. The Sagrada Familia church was the first city site I visited and ambitiously I climbed one of the the narrow towers to the top. On a later trip to the city I got to also visit Parque Güell. It was a real treat and a huge delight as I love architecture, imagination, nature and color, and the park combines it all. Until visiting Barcelona due to my work, I had not seen much of Spain. In 2009, after the 500 mile walk along the Camino, I got the chance to visit more of the southern region of this wonderful country. Beginning with the road trip in Seville and driving for a week, my boyfriend and I had the fortune of seeing many fantastic cities, picturesque sites and centuries old churches. Seville was a colorful city and the tile work in the Plaza de España was impressive. Not to mention the main Cathedral, now the largest in the world, as Christian architects added on the original late 12th century Mosque. We also visited Cordoba with its unforgettable 10th century mosque/church known today as the Mezquita, the Alcazar. At night we enjoyed a popular Arab bathhouse. From Cordoba we went on, stopping in Marbella and Torremolinos by the Mediterranean Sea. I especially enjoyed the architecture of our small Torremolinos hotel. It was close to the beach, but not too close for the noise of the night life to reach us. Granada was next on our fast forward tour. It is a big city, not to be missed. Built on hills, the city is a delight to be seen from the top. Alhambra is a must see in itself, as well as for the view of the city from its gardens. The most memorable night by far was for me the night in Granada, when we went to a flamenco show presented by gypsies in the specially set up caves. What a great night or rhythm and dance!

Spain

Spain and El Camino

Miha / February 20, 2012

I do not know how others would feel about walking a 500 mile path, but for me these are the most treasured memories of Spain. I have traveled throughout the country on multiple occasions and visited a number of different regions. My Camino (“El Camino”) began in Saint- Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, and after reaching the famous Santiago de Compostella, Spain, went on to Muxia and Fisterra (end of the Earth). From the times conversing with an interesting and diverse group of fellow backpackers from all over the world, to the times spent trekking in complete solitude enjoying the fresh air, sights, smells and sounds of nature, the experience is one I will never forget and will always speak of fondly. I have a lot of favorite places and memories all over the globe but the Camino is unique. I recommend it to everyone. You will meet wonderful people, have great conversations, great food and wine, laugh a lot, hear lots of stories about fellow travelers and pass trough unforgettable and unique scenery. The rules of the road are learned as well. Things like making sure you are checked into one of the many welcoming refugios or hostels early enough to get a bed and, if you are really lucky, even an evening meal. Eventually you will learn to enjoy sleeping in the same room with many tired pilgrims (peregrinos), to the tune of a robust chorus of snores and farts, and getting up early enough to be able to start a new day with the morning fresh air. A new day of excitement, delighting in new scenery, new characters, making new friends, and hearing new life stories. Generally computer addicted, I found little time for this activity. Making the best out of the whole experience I only sent a few e-mails to friends and colleagues during the Camino. I have posted a few on this blog. I welcome, invite, and encourage anyone who has walked any portion of the Camino to share your experience and recommendations here, as well as any other Spain experience. There is so much to see, so much to do. If you have a favorite hostel, hotel, restaurant or any review or advice, please share it with the rest of us and help make the most of your fellow traveler’s future journeys.

Spain

E-mail from the end of El Camino

Miha / February 18, 2012

A few days ago I had a full walking day. I got on the road at 6:30 am and went from Santiago de Compostela towards Finisterre. The first Refugio was 20 km away but I was running out of time, having to go back to work soon, so I did not stop there. I knew that I would not find another place for pilgrims until about 48 km from Santiago, but I thought that I would sleep out in the nature as others did already. I was desiring to try that as well. I walked through sleepy villages and quiet forests. All you could here was just the birds, the wind, buzzing insects and rarely a church bell or a dog. It rained a few times along the way so looking for a place to spend the night I knew I needed a covered spot. Maybe near a church’s over-hanging roof or an old barn. I even thought that a covered spot near a church with a cemetery would be interesting, adventurous and daring, but nothing like that came along. The only “covered” place like that would have been a few coffin’s holes in construction, in a cement wall, looking like mini apartment buildings. They even had the marble ready for closing them up. For a second I thought of it! Crazy but different. For sure I could have said I had done something that none of my friends had! Still… could not do it! Too tight! I would have hit my head at some point during the night trying to get up. Good excuse! So… I kept walking. Starving and I was looking even for green fruits in trees but no fruit tree came along my way. I decided to drag myself to the next Refugio hoping that there would be a kitchen and some pots so I could cook my own powder soup mix. It gets dark around 10pm and I made it there just in time. By quarter to ten I was in the Refugio’s kitchen, having walked 57 km for the day (my record so far). The surprise: there was not only a fully equipped kitchen but the “hostelera” (the person in charged of the place) made a huge pot of soup for the pilgrims. She was gone home by now but the soup was still warm and more than a quarter of the pot left. Needless to say, I filled up my plate a few times, plus I had a fresh piece of bread with each plate of soup. There were also fruits for us, and not green as I was willing to eat earlier. Yet, now they did not tempt me anymore. The Camino granted my wishes: the soup, the fruits and even the old barn I had to sleep in, since the rooms and beds were all full by this late hour. They had mattresses on the floor and the place was clean but the smell was clearly still there. The next day I decided to walk first to Muxia and to end the Camino at The end of Terra, or in galician language Fisterra. The walk was one of the most beautiful parts of the whole trip (maybe after the first day on the Pyrenees). I loved the mountains with their forests and rivers (one I had to cross shoeless, for purification, someone thought). The flat areas were not my kind of heaven. For some people they were amazing for their immensity and boundless horizon and for the golden color of the fields. For me it was just boring. How different we all are! My personality doesn’t go well with flat. I need the road to reveal a different view after each bend. Like in life… my life. How about you? I hope to find out the answers from you all, soon. For now my Camino experience is over but the memories, I hope, will stay with me for eternity. I would recommend this to anyone but in reality it is not the kind of vacation some people would enjoy. Well… I am back to work and I will see most of you soon, I hope. With all the love, Miha P.S. Just one correction to one of my first e-mails. There was a Danish man that I met on The Camino and he walked from Holland to Finisterre, about 3000 km. He used to carry his backpack on a heavy duty cart and since he only spoke little English I understood that his backpack was 77kg. This was wrong. The backpack and the cart together only had 55 kg. It was himself that was now 77kg. LOL He was 103 kg three months ago, when he left Holland.