EUROPE

Sighişoara is a walled in medieval citadel nestled at the base of the Carpathians, in central Romania. Part of the Transylvania region, Sighişoara is colorful and picturesque, exuding history and legends that date back to the 12th century. For those with an affinity for castles, fortified cities, and ancient ruins, Sighişoara has to be on the list. History and legends of Sighişoara being mentioned , we have to  note that the town was the birth place of famous Prince Vlad Dracul III. Born in 1431, the Prince later became known as Vlad Ţepeș (“Vlad the Impaler”), and the source of inspiration for the main character in Bram Stoker’s legendary tale Dracula. The citadel does not encompass all of Sighişoara today, but the historic central portion. Outside of the fortified center, like most towns we visited throughout Romania, the architecture was a colorful mix of historical styles, contributed by centuries of change and culture. We were in Sighişoara in September, a great time to visit, yet too late for the famous medieval festival that takes place each year in the final week of July. Additionally, during our visit a movie set was in the process of filming, blocking access to one of the main streets and, unfortunately, entrance to the clock tower. I uttered something between us about speaking with the local officials (I hadn’t had breakfast or coffee yet). I wouldn’t have of course, but Miha was quick to make sure I understood that would not be an option to consider. So we proceeded to continue our pre-breakfast morning walk with a climb up a staircase built in 1642 to a school at the top the hill. At the top of the staircase was this little boy, quietly sweeping the stairs, stepping aside for people to pass, yet asking no one for anything. Miha asked him if we could offer him some money in exchange for directions, tour advice, and a few photos. He agreed, enthusiastically pointed out a walking path, suggesting it would be good for photos, and and gave us what has become one of our favorite people photos. Sighişoara, like the 14th-15th century hand painted monasteries, is one of Romania’s seven sites listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, and it is easy to see why. Described by UNESCO: “Sighisoara is an outstanding testimony to the culture of the Transylvanian Saxons, a culture that is coming to a close after 850 years and will continue to exist only through its architectural and urban monuments. . .”  As Romania and much of the world has opened up to tourism – and we will tour – how many places can, or will, preserve well such an authentic medieval architecture? (Provided at the end of the post are links to a list of World Heritage sites). We arrived in the evening after a day on the road which began in the northernmost town of Putna. Visiting a few more of the Romanian Monasteries in the morning we wound south over the Carpathians making a number of leisurely stops. The last leg of the drive took us through Bicaz and into the dark (very dark) winding mountain road and then down into Sighişoara. We spent the night at Aquaris Pensiune, which was clean and comfortable. Thanks to the friendly service we even got a late night pizza. In the morning we walked across the bridge into the fortified town. Sighişoara is popular with tourists and I found the café menus and prices reflective of such. Not excessively, but quite similar in standard menu options and prices one might find in any US town. Running short on time, we only spent a day in Sighişoara. Bran, Rasnov, and Bucureşti were still on the list and we had to be in Istanbul in just a few days. I will look forward to visiting Sighişoara again. Note: In addition to hotel rooms, Aquaris Pensiune also has campsites, cabins and a large pool. To read more about our experience at Aquaris Pensiune, click here. World Heritage Sites in Romania World Heritage Sites Worldwide Additional Photos of Sighişoara:

It was a cold night in Arad, Romania December 31, 2012. At least from my perspective, and undoubtedly the coldest night of this European winter holiday trip. Luckily, the Romanians know how to stay warm, and at these temperatures I am not hesitant to accept a little of the local cheer. I was nestled tightly within a crowd and for once not complaining about it. We sipped on some warm Glühwein, enjoyed the warmth of the crowd, live music and fireworks outside Arad’s capitol building. I had been prepped for the cold before going out with a few shots of Țuică – a traditional (homemade) Romanian spirit sure to keep anyone warm, cure any ailment and numb any pain. (Note: Earlier in the day, independent performers dressed in costume marched the neighborhoods, playing instruments and carolling). The Christmas market in the public capitol courtyard and side street was lined with food vendors and the fragrance of Cozonac, Kürtős being cooked on a spit over charcoal, Glühwein, and street foods sifted through the cold, crisp air. (Above link is to a recipe for  walnut filled Cozonac. Click here for poppy seed cozonac. You have to try both!). There is a saying in Romania that, in effect, states that whatever you are doing when the clock strikes the New Year, that is what your year will be filled with. From 12:00 to 12:01 am January 01, 2013, some were toasting and drinking, some were eating and some were dancing. I can say that in the first minute of the new year, there was however a lot of kissing going on- probably enough to rival the 525,599 minutes preceding it. In continuation of a positive initiation into 2013 we rounded out the first few hours in a warm kitchen with dear friends, nibbling (more food), sipping, and passing a guitar around to accommodate requests for Romanian, German, and American classics. Later in the day after some much needed rest, we walked the nearly empty streets of Arad. The temperature was nice, with no need for a coat out in the sun. Few people were out and of course most stores were closed. We roamed around a bit and returned for the camera (and more pastries) and then set out again. January 1, 2013 was a beautiful day in Arad. We passed through the parks and plazas, walked along the river, and took the time for a closer look at monuments and architecture. As the sun was setting, so was the temperature and we returned to the warmth of a home for dinner with family and packing. Miha had been called to work and we would have to leave Romania early. January 2 would be a 5:30 am train connecting through Budapest and taking us on a 16 hour journey to Leipzig, Germany. A friend once said he thought it would be fun to spend New Year’s eve in a different country each year for the rest of his life. Seems an admirable ambition worth adopting. Where to next year?

If you are losing a bit of that nostalgic feeling for the Christmas season, pack up and go somewhere else. We spent this past Christmas in the village of Birchiş, Romania, and New Year’s eve in Arad. The morning of Monday, December 24 began with a ceremony at the long standing village basilica, ornate with detailed, hand painted walls and ceilings. Children carried bags receiving fresh homemade bread, and a church crew dressed in traditional holiday costume performed. Completing the ceremony, the musicians began a march outside of the basilica complete with drums, wind instruments and vocals, at approximately 11 am. Throughout the day and into the evening, village children went house to house dressed in traditional costumes, caroling and acting out different religious scenes. They were complemented and rewarded with fresh bread and/or money. After the traditional breaking of bread with money in each side to see who will be destined to have the best luck in the coming year, an abundance of traditional rich, fresh foods were served up: fresh pork, all homemade bread, cheeses, soup, various spreads of eggplant (Salata de Vinete) and vegetables (Zacuscă), prune dumplings (Găluşte cu Prune), and mini cakes. We ate, of course, too much. Somewhere in the neighborhood of probably 4:30 to 5:30 am we were softly awoken by the distant chant of drums in a steady beat that was gradually growing closer.  Soon the group of musicians from the basilica arrived, having marched non-stop from the previous morning, delivering traditional cheer with a short performance at every house on every street in the entire village throughout the night. Christmas day included more food (too much), visits to friends and relatives, warmed with the local homemade hooch (Țuică). We visited the town of Săvârşin, where King Mihai of Romania (self exiled upon communist takeover) returns to his palace, and although 93 years old, visits the people of his former kingdom, bringing food and gifts to those in need every year. Too much food, warmed from the cold with homemade drink and wood burning heat, a visit from Santa Claus, generous givings from one of the remaining real Kings of a previous era, and carolers in a traditional age old performance. It’ll revive your Christmas spirit. Click on individual photos for larger view and comment option.  Again to view image full screen.

The scenic drive through northern Romania visiting centuries old monasteries was a trip well worth taking.  Leaving Brasov and making our way up through the northeastern slopes of the Carpathians, the landscape changed to hues of blue-green grasses, mountains and rolling hills, picturesque with uniquely constructed  fences and domed hay stacks. The drive takes you through a number  of villages, sharing the narrow road with horse pulled carts, tractors and farm animals. The drive itself is worthy of it’s own post. Romania has numerous monasteries and while we certainly did not see them all, we visited some great ones. Leaving lasting impressions, each one is worth the recommendation. Driving into the beautiful region of Moldova (sometimes referred to as Moldavia) early morning after our usual stop at a local pastry shop, our first monastery was Văratec.  Later in the day, during our stop at the monastery in Agapia de jos (built 1642-1647), outside the town of  Târgu Neamţ, we had the privilege of giving a nun a ride into a nearby town.  However before we left for her destination, we were guided up the hill to a quiet, small wooden and very ornate monastery where we were the only visitors. The ride was very informative, and thanks to her direction we were guided to the home and museum of the famous Romanian writer and story teller, Ion Creangă, for a pleasant, unexpected surprise. Over a few days we visited a number of  monasteries throughout Bucovina and Moldova, including the famous hand painted monasteries and those commissioned by Stefan cel Mare (Voroneț-1488, Moldovița-1532, and Putna-1466). Voroneț (voro -netz) with its famous fresco of the Last Judgment painted on the west wall is done in a blue so unique, vivid and vibrant that the color was named after it: Voroneț Blue. Not far from the Romania / Ukraine border, we ended the day at the monastery of Putna, where the tomb of Stefan Cel Mare and third wife Maria are kept. The night snuck up on us and we had to look for accommodations. Pensuine Agroturistica Cerbul, was on our path and the stay was memorable. The kind owners presented us with a breakfast of fresh homemade cheeses, breads, pastries, condiments, and herbal tea from their garden. We had a great conversation before we set off for the day. (Well, not speaking the language, Michael continued to eat – too much – while Mihaela engaged in conversation and translated). We were told the story of how the location of the monastery was chosen. Stefan Cel Mare (Stefan the Great – King of Moldova) defeated the more powerful Ottomans and built the monastery as a tribute.  To choose the location he climbed Crucii Hill and fired an arrow, and in the location it landed the Putna monastery was built. Rich in history; powerful in presence; an ancient lifestyle preserved by those living in the monasteries today; architectural intrigue and a unique gift to the world, eight of the Romanian monasteries are on the UNESCO World Heritage List. A visit to the Romanian Monasteries would be a recommendation to anyone visiting Eastern Europe. And my recommendation would be to rent a car, enjoy the drive and keep your eyes open.