Costa Rica

If you have never been to Sarchí. . . Whether just visiting Costa Rica, currently living there or considering retirement, Sarchí should be on the day trip list – or longer if in search of tranquility amidst natural beauty. Located in the province of Alajuela, nestled within the rolling hills lush with coffee, sugarcane, and banana, Sarchí is recognized as a local and long time native artisan community known for woodworking, handmade furniture, and other arts and crafts. However there is another iconic item representative of Costa Rica which originates out of Sarchi. Co-founded by the Alfaro family whose influence is rich in the local culture, October 26, 2012 was the 63rd anniversary of the founding of the canton, Valverde Vega, of which Sarchí is the capital. Sadly, Dauve Alfaro Castro, one of the founding members of Sarchí passed away in early August at the age of 90. Blessed with the friendship of the wonderful people that make up the Alfaro family, we accompanied them to the celebratory parade and festivities marking the anniversary and honoring their family and other founding members. Anyone who has spent any time in Costa Rica is familiar with the ornately painted oxcarts. There are annual oxcart festivals and judging, and mini to full sized oxcarts can be purchased at virtually any gift shop. In the central park of Sarchí sits the world’s largest painted oxcart. Appropriate, as the hand painted oxcart finds it’s origin in Sarchí, at the hand of Eloy Alfaro Corrales, father of Dauve. While visiting Sarchi, one is missing out if they do not visit the fabrica  (factory) of Eloy Alfaro (Fabrica de Carretas Eloy Alfaro) , located out the back door to the left of the large gift shop, just two short blocks from the central park. While there are craftsman working in the factory today, they encourage visitors. Walk into the ground level and one of the craftsmen will turn on and demonstrate the elaborate system of pulleys and belts powered by waterwheel that runs the woodworking machinery, devised by inventor Eloy, prior to having electricity available. It is quite impressive. Upstairs, you will see oxcart wheels and other wood crafts being handmade in the traditional methods, along with photos of Eloy and family. Arrive in Sarchí in the morning and enjoy fresh bread and baked goods with coffee or tea at the bakery adjacent to the park, with full view of the oxcart. Three of us filled and warmed our bellies for a total of about US $4. The church is beautiful and the park is full of artist’s renderings. Even the garbage cans and street signs are ornately painted. Just down from the corner of the park on the main road, to the left across the street from the bakery Musanni, is a little café specializing in helados (ice cream snacks) and refrescos (fresh fruit juices). Fruit is Costa Rica is picked ripe, so the flavors are deep and rich. The prices are good, and owners who originate from Colombia are quite welcoming, enjoy meeting their customers, and are happy to discuss how they searched various countries and communities before choosing to settle in Sarchí and open a business. A short drive from San José, Sarchi is an easy day trip, and locale one should visit, even if just on the way to or returning from the coast or Arenal. Many expats are moving into the Atenas, Grecia, and San Ramon regions, and all are within easy proximity to Sarchí. On a side note, for the drive: Shortly outside of San José, as the landscape begins a transformation to rolling hills covered in shades of green, on the left is a place called Fiesta del Maiz. All things made of corn, stop in and try something at this long-time favorite stop with the locals. Additionally, as you pass through Grecia, take the time to visit the church, which is said to be the only metal church in Central America.  

On a recent trip to my former home of Costa Rica to visit long time friends and business associates, I was fortunate enough to spend a day floating around the beautiful Lake Arenal on a large pontoon boat. As often as I visited Volcán Arenal in the years I lived there, I had never been out on the lake. My friend Sonia had reserved a boat for her and her family for an all day Sunday outing on the lake. We left Curridabat, a San José suburb and home of the Russian Embassy on Saturday, picked up some family and bypassed the turn off through Naranjo and Zarcero and opted for the winding, scenic drive from San Ramon through pineapple fields and waterfalls. Arriving in La Fortuna, I was a bit shocked and the number of hotels and how much this area had grown over the years, but I must say it is, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful regions of the country. With the world economy challenged, tourism is down a bit and there are specials to be found. Through one of the local on-line discount sites (www.estacion506cr.com or www.yuplon.com) we booked our stay at Volcano Lodge. No complaints here. For $50 night we had clean rooms, hot water, a great location, great service and a delicious all you can eat breakfast with a clear view of the volcano through lush gardens. After our breakfast Sunday morning we took a drive past the volcano over the bridge and around to the other side of Lago Arenal, where we met up with boat captains Laura and Herrold and their two children. Herrold and Laura own and operate a pontoon boat service providing tours on the lake. A day on the lake with up to 50 people runs $600 + food if you want them to cook. Our group had opted for the food, which was all organically grown and raised by Herrold’s family and local farmers. (And I must say, Herrold and family are great chefs).  We spent the day on the lake, anchoring at an island to set up the grill, eat, and go for a swim while watching the cloud cover roll in and out atop the volcano. For more information or to book a day on the lake, you can contact Herrold directly at: gerencia@ecotermalesfortuna.cr or (506) 8867-5635 or (506) 2479-8787 ext 115. An interesting story presumably little known to most tourists of the area, I was told the history of Lake Arenal. Once the location of a town named Arenal seated down in the valley, the government relocated the town in the 80’s with the agreement of the people (hence “New Arenal”). Eight rivers were then re-routed to create and feed what is now the 80 to 90 metersdeep Lake Arenal, for the purpose of providing power. Additionally, a new river was created out of the lake to provide water as needed to a Guanacaste town which previously had no water source part of the year. After stopping for some Agua de Pipa (coconut water direct from the source, ¢150 -about 30 cents) we rounded out the day and enjoyed the evening relaxing in the hot springs at Ecotermales. Ecotermales continues to grow, with pools and waterfalls fed by the volcanic hot springs in a lush setting with a full bar – yet only ¢8,000 (approx $16) – a fraction of the cost and fraction of the crowd found at some of the others springs. Coming from the lake, Ecotermales is located on the main road back to La Fortuna just past and across from the grand Baldi Resort and Spa, on the left. No matter how many times I visit the Arenal region of Costa Rica, it remains one my favorite areas and I discover something new everytime I return. After a boom in real estate and development, some prices have come down and there are a number of homes as well as little hotels for sale. If by chance you are looking for real estate in Costa Rica, Sonia is a lifetime, full time real estate professional with over 30 years experience, with many longstanding foreign corporations and expat clients, and one of the most honest individuals you will ever meet. All very important qualities, especially when buying in a foreign land with different intricacies than you are accustomed to. Sonia can be reached by e-mail or telephone: sazsonia@gmail.com  (506) 2272-0156 or (506) 8383-6158.    

Small but beautiful, Costa Rica  is versatile and developing rapidly. As an editor who once lived in the country, operating a US based publicly traded company, return visits come filled with mixed emotions. As infrastructure improves and develops,  some care-free freedoms are reduced while amenities, prices, and populations are increased. Yet from a travel perspective this is still a wonderful place to visit. Hostels and inexpensive lodging can be found, and one can pick anything from rustic, limited, to luxury resorts and anywhere in between.  Fresh fruits and vegetables are abundant, picked ripe and flavorful in their natural state. The coffee and rum are excellent, the people are quite friendly and helpful, and the myriad of mini ecosystems allow one to basically choose any climate they wish. Favorites include the beautiful and picturesque secluded pink beach with turquoise waters located within Punta Leona, just south of Playa Jaco. While Punta Leona is not available to the general public, other great locations are, such as Playa Conchal. Now the home of the large, luxurious Melia resort, we used to access this sea shell white beach by going to Playa Brasalito and walking south through the brush. Vulcan Arenal is a beautiful region, lush with green hills and colorful flora and fauna. If you sit quietly, you can hear a variety of birds contributing to nature’s symphony. Tabacon Hot Springs maintains a lush landscape and beauty second to none. Back in the main city of San Jose, in the suburb of Escazu, is the beautiful hotel Posada El Quijote, quitely nestled on a hillside just outside of the hustle and bustle, self-sufficient with an elegant living room and view of the city. When staying in the city I always make at least one trip to the restaurant Le Monastere, whose owner, Vicente, boasts a fabulous founding story. For a traditional visit to one the country’s oldest and most beautiful restaurants, lined with exotic woods, take a trip to Ram Luna in Asseri above Desamparados. Too much to list all on one page, as with any place visited frequently or extensively. (Written by contributing editor. See posts for Miha’s favorites, and other locations such the Orosi Valley, cable cars in Braullio Carillo Rain Forest, and others).