Boquete/Caldera, Chiriqui, Panama

Surrounded by mountains with lots of rivers and waterfalls, lush vegetation, rich in animal and bird life, the growing town of Boquete (in the Chiriquí Province of Panama) has attracted many foreigners in the past years. Its climate, its beauty, as well as the inexpensive cost of living have made it a haven for many. Unfortunately this is precisely why land and property prices have become exaggeratedly high compared with most places in other areas of the country.

I learned quickly my first day here that not much can be done anymore for free. The hikes and walks that I usually enjoy on my own are sold here as guided tours and the information to get to the trails, waterfalls and hot springs with no organized tour, it is hard to find. Even to get to most of the waterfalls you will have to pay a fee.

I will try to guide all the “save a buck” adventurers to the places I hiked with no guide or group. Common sense and good care is needed as people with mal intentions can be found in any country you travel and the forests are full of life that includes spiders and snakes.

Another word of advice is to pay the one or two dollars extra per night for a hostel in which you will feel good and welcomed in order to avoid frustration and bad attitudes, especially when the money you save on the room price will be added to your bill somewhere else (some hostels charge over a dollar per day for each bag you leave with them after 11am, the check out time; or they charge double the price that a laundry in town would cost if you gave them your clothes to take there for you, a short walk you can do in 5 minutes). Staying at the right place will make your adventure more enjoyable. You will meet more like minded travelers and you will not be affected by an “all for the money” attitude of owners that try to sell you tours but will have no time to give information.

Located near a park, in a central but noisy spot, Hostel Mamallena had a nice atmosphere and made me feel at home. I moved there after spending three nights in a hostel where I felt like I was walking on egg shells around an unfriendly owner, and where I was met with excuses to some of my requests. The last straw was, when after three nights on a hard to climb in to upper bed I asked to move to a bottom bed after all the other people in the dorm had left. I was allowed to, but the linen was not changed and when I questioned it I was told it was changed the night before last. Problem was, if that was true, there was still one night of someone else sleeping on it. I decided to move and I was not sorry. I should have done it earlier but they had a “no refund” policy. Another couple decided to move even though they would forfeit their money. So try not to pay for too many nights in advance at Hostel Nomba.

Now for the fun things to do: the hot spring in Caldera. The bus to Caldera leaves from the center of the town, near the central park, but there are not too many going that direction. The one at 7am leaves from the street close to the Mamallena Hostel while the one at 9:30am leaves from the street across the park from Mamallena. Before you get dropped off also ask when they will return and when the last run is. The road to Caldera follows the road towards David for a while and later it will turn east. Ask for the entrance to the Aguas Termales or Los Posos Termales. The bus ride will take about 40 minutes. Follow the road to the right and if you chose the Los Posos Termales you will be there in 30-40 minutes. The road will take you over a dam and a river. After the bridge over the river the road splits. The blue and white sign indicates the hot springs of Los Pozos, 500m to the left. The sign to the right indicates 4km to the “Aguas Termales La Abuela”.

The gate to Los Posos has a small and maybe inconspicuous wooden sign. Some people missed it. The entrance fee is $2.00 per person now, July 2012. No worry, the care taker will find you. There are three or four pools of hot water surrounded by walls made of piled up rocks.

The “crazy monkey” that hangs around the place can put on a good show but it might not be too funny if it grabs something of value to you.

I saw the monkey when I first entered the area after the gate. A local guy going the other way told me “Crazy monkey” and indicated to me to put my camera away. Memories of the monkeys in South Africa came to mind and I recalled they were always looking for food and smelling if you had any with you. Want to guess what the single item of food in my backpack was? A banana! Of all foods available that is what I chose to take with me today. So my fast thinking was:

“Better to lose the banana than lose the camera.” I offered the banana to the monkey in return for taking pictures of it. So in the region of Boquete even the monkeys will to be paid. The “mono loco” ate the banana following along my side and at times holding it on its tail. It even threw a good part of it away. I picked it up and the monkey took it back out of my hand later.

It sure was used to people more then we were used to it. At some point it stopped following and I did not see it for a while. I enjoyed the first and second hot spring and met a couple from Denmark I chatted with. By the third hot spring the “crazy monkey” came to visit with us. We began taking pictures of it but at some point it grabbed a tree branch and then another and landed on top of my head and around my neck. The Danish guy said “it tries to get your towel”. I gave him my camera so I could have some shots with the monkey around my neck but I did hold on my towel.

Next thing I know the monkey got down to my bag and put its hand in it. I grabbed the arm and the bag so it retracted the arm. Yet, my shoes were next to the bag with my socks on the top. I luckily guessed its next move before it got to grab my shoes but it made it away with one of my socks. It smelled it and played with it at first and I was saying loudly that it really should not do that. Smell it, I mean. Maybe it did agree with me in the end as it went to the hot spring and washed it. Hanging on a tree’s branch, over the water, it began balancing and washing my sock. I have a few videos to prove it! LOL

Later three other tourists arrived and began videotaping the monkey, so at some point “mono loco” climbed high into a tree with my sock. Yet, not much later, like a child bored with a toy, it abandoned my sock for a new toy that proved to be a rusted scissor with yellow plastic handles. It put it in its mouth and turned it around all directions. We were all thinking how dangerous this can be and luckily soon it got tired of the scissors, too.

After the “crazy monkey” show was over I went to the cool river, took a bath in the refreshing water and sat on a big rock resting with my hands and eyes on my belongings. Never know when the “loco” decides to visit again.

The best part of the day yet was the “crazy monkey” deal. Maybe the next time I will take more dirty clothes and some soap with me, too.

On the way back I met a guy with three horses and I got to ride one for a while and later to see and take pictures with a big scary looking African bull. It was so domesticated that it acted as if it did not even notice us getting on top of it.

Also there is a nice little beach by the river, in the direction of the “Aguas Termales La Abuela”. The guy with the horses called it La Limon Beach. The river there is deep enough for a nice swim. I would have stayed longer if this guy was not there and if I would have had more time until the last bus towards Boquete.

For more information on Boquete and the trip to Caldera check out this site: http://moon.com/explore/panama/