Author name: Michael

ECUADOR, SOUTH AMERICA

Cotacachi

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From the bus terminal in Otavalo, the charming little village of Cotacachi, famous for its leather goods is a 25 cent bus ride, 20 minute bus ride. From the bus terminal in Cotacachi, to the right of the station, we walked directly to the corner passing the bus station services building to your left, and down the street full of leather shops on both sides. At one point, not far, we reached a location with outdoor vendors as well. We only spent a few hours in Cotacachi – on a Saturday -so missed the Sunday produce market. We found the leather goods to be inexpensive in most cases, but certainly not all – and more expensive than we may have guessed for some items. A seemingly quiet town, we noticed a few other tourists visiting and shopping, and expats willing to help out with directions and advice.

ecuador
ECUADOR, SOUTH AMERICA

Otavalo

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About 1.5 to 2 hours by bus from the Carcelen bus terminal in Quito, a little past the lake with the volcano backdrop is the town of Otavalo. Famous for its weekend market that fills several city streets, Otavalo is full of color. There are some markets running each day, however the weekend market is the one Otavalo is known for, primarily hosted by the indigenous people of Ecuador. Loaded with handcrafts of all sorts from alpaca blankets and sweaters to jewelry made of the tagua nut and native woods, to paintings and clothing, the streets are full and colorful with the aroma of various street foods wafting through the air. Name brand and copies of name brand clothing and shoes are abundant as well, but who wants to visit a famous market in Ecuador for brand items? Walk the entire market and negotiate a bit on prices before purchasing. Then make the rounds again in the late afternoon. The bargaining is friendly and non-aggressive, and bargains are to be had on pretty much anything. Only a 25 cent bus ride, less than a half hour away, is Cotacachi, a small village known for it’s leather goods. We walked the Otavalo market in the morning, took the bus to Cotacachi and did a little shopping, then returned to start filling our bags. Some of the interesting items found include jewelry made of dried orange peels and the seeds from the large tagua fruit, as well as hand crafted instruments and clothing. The town central of Otavalo itself is clean and colorful, with the churches and waterfalls lit up at night with accents of blue, green, and purple, with decorated street lamps. The old style street lamps are adorned with stained glass designs. Plenty of bread and pastry shops fill the air with sweet scents. Although not Ecuatoriano,  there is a pretty good Mexican restaurant on Avenida Piedrahita by the name of Chimichangas (Simon Bolivar y Vicente Piedrahita), colorful with interesting art on the walls, where two dinners, a desert and cocktail or beer will run a total of about $11-$15. A number of hostels and a few hotels are within 2-6 blocks or less of the central plaza. We spent two nights at Hotel Chasqui, with a rooftop kitchen and balcony overlooking the valley, and only a few short blocks of town central (click here on Otavalo Lodging for more on the hotel).

ECUADOR, Ecuador Lodging, Lodging

Otavalo Lodging

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We spent two nights in the village of Otavalo at Hostal Chasqui. Located just a short 6 block walk from the first bus stop after the entrance to Otavalo, the hostel is easy to get to. It would not be too difficult a walk from the Otavalo bus terminal as well, however if carrying luggage the taxi ride -at the time we visited – is US $1. Hostal Chasqui is located just slightly up the hill on Calle Piedrahita, which goes pretty much directly into the downtown plaza. 5-6 blocks directly down Calle Piedrahita and one block to the right and you arrive at the central plaza with the park and church. Milton, who was on duty during our stay, was fabulous. Very informative and made everything easy. After being taken to our room we were given a tour of the hostel. He then provided us with a map which pointed out everything from the various market locations, to ATMs, groceries, various restaurants, and the big market days for Otavalo and Cotacachi. Our room was located on a floor with a few others, with a shared patio overlooking the city. Each room had a window into the patio, and chairs outside the doors. The kitchen was rooftop with a nice view. One plus for Hostal Chasqui is the free use of a washing machine, with laundry detergent included. The location was good, price was US $12 per person per night, and our host was very accommodating. Room was clean, bathroom was functional with a shower set below the floor and curtain long enough to prevent a wet, slippery tile floor. The room had Cable TV, with lamps and tables on each side of the bed. The only negative comments would be that the village itself, primarily of concrete construction and being in a valley is noisy. Certainly not the fault of the hostel, however the bathroom had a framed window opening with no window to close, therefore making it difficult to shut out the exterior noise of dogs barking, music playing, and traffic at all hours of the night. If others on the shared patio or at the kitchen are loud, the sound carries. We were unlucky enough to have some fellow loud guests on our last night, repeatedly waking us up into the early morning. Other than that, the pillow was a bit lumpy but better than most hostels we experienced in Ecuador. The bed was comfortable – room could get a bit cold, but plenty of blankets. The hostel amenities were good, the staff (Milton) and service was great, and location is convenient with a nice view. Overall a positive experience. To read others reviews, see more pics or reserve a room: Hostal Chasqui +59 362 923 199  or  within the country (06)2923-199 Calle Piedrahita 141 y Guayaquil  

La Basilica, Quito
ECUADOR, SOUTH AMERICA

Arriving in Quito

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Our easy 1.5 hour flight from Panama City, Panama to the new Quito airport turned into 4.5 hours, making the would be short trip from Florida to Ecuador not so short. Fog rolled in quickly between the mountains surrounding the new airport, and the pilot had to pull up and circle a few times before moving on to Guayaquil and landing to re-fuel and wait out the weather. The new airport is quite a distance from downtown Quito and the Centro Historico area. About an hour ride by taxi with no traffic at 2 am, not sure I would recommend trying to navigate the public bus system on this one. A taxi however runs about $30, and we found this to be the going rate amongst hostels that once provided free airport pickup, however no longer due to the distance. Not sure how valid the source, but we were told that recommendations had been made not to build the airport in the new location because of frequent fog, but the project moved forward. Whatever the case, delays are apparently common already, so have plan B ready accordingly. We were pleasantly surprised: the taxi driver sent by the hostel waited the entire 3 hour delay for us! (He received a generous tip). It was 4 am when we laid our heads to rest at the Colonial House Hostal, and the roosters were already starting to crow. The room was clean, the bed was comfortable, and the roosters were quickly tuned out. We woke up around 9 and opened the window to the fresh, crisp morning air, to a view out the window of the angel on the hill. Time to put on the shoes and hit the streets in search of a local cafe serving comidas tipicas (typical food -local food) with real coffee (not instant), and do some people watching. We found one on Calle Guayaquil. A freshly made jugo natural of sandia (watermelon), filtered coffee, and a baseball sized bolon (breaded green plantain and cheese mixture) and a pastry set us back a whopping $2.50 with tax and tip. All good and we were off to the hostel to meet our hosts from Children International for a wonderful day.  

ECUADOR, SOUTH AMERICA

Traveling to Ecuador

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Any recommendations? I will be traveling with Miha on her return visit to Ecuador next week (April 2013). No time for Galapagos this trip and not likely to make it to coast. However the agenda will be busy, visiting  friends of Miha’s in Quito and Guayaquil, as well as stop overs in Otavalo, Baños, and the southern towns of Loja, and Vilcabamba. We’re going to check out some hostels and other recommendations, as usual, and  write about them on the BLOG (www.travelswithmiha.com), where a highlighted overview of her previous journey is noted . This time we intend to make some new friends and enhance the experience through one of her favorite but not often enough used Couchsurfing network. Loja, Vilcabamba, and Otavalo will be new visits for Miha – interests sparked by reading through our editions of International Living Magazine, and all will be a first time visit for Michael. Spanning a fair distance between the southern region of Ecuador, where Loja and Vilcabamba are located, and Quito,  we are looking for additional recommended locations in between, to visit and stay over one or two nights. We were considering a possible stop over in Tigua, home of the artist and origins of the iconic Ecuadorian paintings. Cob cottages would be cool. Other interests would of course include scenic, safe, beautiful locations with friendly people and great local food. Considering bus versus rent-a-car, and curious as to the interior road conditions. Any recommendations?

CENTRAL AMERICA, Costa Rica

Sarchí

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If you have never been to Sarchí. . . Whether just visiting Costa Rica, currently living there or considering retirement, Sarchí should be on the day trip list – or longer if in search of tranquility amidst natural beauty. Located in the province of Alajuela, nestled within the rolling hills lush with coffee, sugarcane, and banana, Sarchí is recognized as a local and long time native artisan community known for woodworking, handmade furniture, and other arts and crafts. However there is another iconic item representative of Costa Rica which originates out of Sarchi. Co-founded by the Alfaro family whose influence is rich in the local culture, October 26, 2012 was the 63rd anniversary of the founding of the canton, Valverde Vega, of which Sarchí is the capital. Sadly, Dauve Alfaro Castro, one of the founding members of Sarchí passed away in early August at the age of 90. Blessed with the friendship of the wonderful people that make up the Alfaro family, we accompanied them to the celebratory parade and festivities marking the anniversary and honoring their family and other founding members. Anyone who has spent any time in Costa Rica is familiar with the ornately painted oxcarts. There are annual oxcart festivals and judging, and mini to full sized oxcarts can be purchased at virtually any gift shop. In the central park of Sarchí sits the world’s largest painted oxcart. Appropriate, as the hand painted oxcart finds it’s origin in Sarchí, at the hand of Eloy Alfaro Corrales, father of Dauve. While visiting Sarchi, one is missing out if they do not visit the fabrica  (factory) of Eloy Alfaro (Fabrica de Carretas Eloy Alfaro) , located out the back door to the left of the large gift shop, just two short blocks from the central park. While there are craftsman working in the factory today, they encourage visitors. Walk into the ground level and one of the craftsmen will turn on and demonstrate the elaborate system of pulleys and belts powered by waterwheel that runs the woodworking machinery, devised by inventor Eloy, prior to having electricity available. It is quite impressive. Upstairs, you will see oxcart wheels and other wood crafts being handmade in the traditional methods, along with photos of Eloy and family. Arrive in Sarchí in the morning and enjoy fresh bread and baked goods with coffee or tea at the bakery adjacent to the park, with full view of the oxcart. Three of us filled and warmed our bellies for a total of about US $4. The church is beautiful and the park is full of artist’s renderings. Even the garbage cans and street signs are ornately painted. Just down from the corner of the park on the main road, to the left across the street from the bakery Musanni, is a little café specializing in helados (ice cream snacks) and refrescos (fresh fruit juices). Fruit is Costa Rica is picked ripe, so the flavors are deep and rich. The prices are good, and owners who originate from Colombia are quite welcoming, enjoy meeting their customers, and are happy to discuss how they searched various countries and communities before choosing to settle in Sarchí and open a business. A short drive from San José, Sarchi is an easy day trip, and locale one should visit, even if just on the way to or returning from the coast or Arenal. Many expats are moving into the Atenas, Grecia, and San Ramon regions, and all are within easy proximity to Sarchí. On a side note, for the drive: Shortly outside of San José, as the landscape begins a transformation to rolling hills covered in shades of green, on the left is a place called Fiesta del Maiz. All things made of corn, stop in and try something at this long-time favorite stop with the locals. Additionally, as you pass through Grecia, take the time to visit the church, which is said to be the only metal church in Central America.  

CENTRAL AMERICA, Costa Rica

Arenal

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On a recent trip to my former home of Costa Rica to visit long time friends and business associates, I was fortunate enough to spend a day floating around the beautiful Lake Arenal on a large pontoon boat. As often as I visited Volcán Arenal in the years I lived there, I had never been out on the lake. My friend Sonia had reserved a boat for her and her family for an all day Sunday outing on the lake. We left Curridabat, a San José suburb and home of the Russian Embassy on Saturday, picked up some family and bypassed the turn off through Naranjo and Zarcero and opted for the winding, scenic drive from San Ramon through pineapple fields and waterfalls. Arriving in La Fortuna, I was a bit shocked and the number of hotels and how much this area had grown over the years, but I must say it is, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful regions of the country. With the world economy challenged, tourism is down a bit and there are specials to be found. Through one of the local on-line discount sites (www.estacion506cr.com or www.yuplon.com) we booked our stay at Volcano Lodge. No complaints here. For $50 night we had clean rooms, hot water, a great location, great service and a delicious all you can eat breakfast with a clear view of the volcano through lush gardens. After our breakfast Sunday morning we took a drive past the volcano over the bridge and around to the other side of Lago Arenal, where we met up with boat captains Laura and Herrold and their two children. Herrold and Laura own and operate a pontoon boat service providing tours on the lake. A day on the lake with up to 50 people runs $600 + food if you want them to cook. Our group had opted for the food, which was all organically grown and raised by Herrold’s family and local farmers. (And I must say, Herrold and family are great chefs).  We spent the day on the lake, anchoring at an island to set up the grill, eat, and go for a swim while watching the cloud cover roll in and out atop the volcano. For more information or to book a day on the lake, you can contact Herrold directly at: gerencia@ecotermalesfortuna.cr or (506) 8867-5635 or (506) 2479-8787 ext 115. An interesting story presumably little known to most tourists of the area, I was told the history of Lake Arenal. Once the location of a town named Arenal seated down in the valley, the government relocated the town in the 80’s with the agreement of the people (hence “New Arenal”). Eight rivers were then re-routed to create and feed what is now the 80 to 90 metersdeep Lake Arenal, for the purpose of providing power. Additionally, a new river was created out of the lake to provide water as needed to a Guanacaste town which previously had no water source part of the year. After stopping for some Agua de Pipa (coconut water direct from the source, ¢150 -about 30 cents) we rounded out the day and enjoyed the evening relaxing in the hot springs at Ecotermales. Ecotermales continues to grow, with pools and waterfalls fed by the volcanic hot springs in a lush setting with a full bar – yet only ¢8,000 (approx $16) – a fraction of the cost and fraction of the crowd found at some of the others springs. Coming from the lake, Ecotermales is located on the main road back to La Fortuna just past and across from the grand Baldi Resort and Spa, on the left. No matter how many times I visit the Arenal region of Costa Rica, it remains one my favorite areas and I discover something new everytime I return. After a boom in real estate and development, some prices have come down and there are a number of homes as well as little hotels for sale. If by chance you are looking for real estate in Costa Rica, Sonia is a lifetime, full time real estate professional with over 30 years experience, with many longstanding foreign corporations and expat clients, and one of the most honest individuals you will ever meet. All very important qualities, especially when buying in a foreign land with different intricacies than you are accustomed to. Sonia can be reached by e-mail or telephone: sazsonia@gmail.com  (506) 2272-0156 or (506) 8383-6158.    

NORTH AMERICA, Oregon, USA

Oregon

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Oregon is a diverse state, mixed with warm, dry, and flat inland summers, combined with very green, mountainous and often very cool (even in summer) coastal regions and rainforests. The people of Oregon display a general zest for healthy lifestyles. Clean and green with recycling bins, natural foods, vegan and vegetarian options seemingly more readily available than many places, Oregon appears to host a population of not only environmentally and health conscious, but environmentally intelligent. With clean roads weaving through lush green mountains and rivers; home to geological wonders like Crater Lake and with views the likes of Mt. Hood and occasional wildlife, it is easy to see why. Sandstone cliffs and rocky coastlines dotted with light houses regularly offer whale and Sea Lion sightings, the latter of which whose deep groans and barks are often heard before seen as one approaches the shoreline. Sunsets are beautiful, however in addition to the camera, be sure to bring some warm and wind/rain proof clothing when visiting the Oregon coastal region, even in summer. For a real treat, take a 9 day natural building course with the Cob Cottage Company, learn the centuries old revised and economical/ ecological methods (you will be surprised and enchanted) and enjoy an educational group hike –barefoot- through the woods.  Some of Oregon’s major cities such as Eugene and Portland are easy to get in and out of and provide good starting and ending points for exploration, in addition to exploring the cities themselves. Progressive west coast culture with major outerwear employers, food cart/trailer parking bazaars, historical sites and great views adorn them. Read more about, post comments, and share your Oregon experience and recommendations below.

NORTH AMERICA, USA, Washington State

Washington State

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I have always been of the opinion that Washington is one of the most scenic states, and the Pacific Northwest region in general. Majestic mountains, evergreens, fresh water lakes, rivers, and streams provide post card scenery. But then, maybe I am biased. From the avoid-winter-creature I am,  admittedly even the snow covered, ice glistening terrain of this state conjures up picture perfect holiday nostalgia and memories of a time when this cold stuff was fun. An old friend once tried to convince me of the need for contrasting seasons to keep oneself in balance, and experience a greater appreciation for each and enhanced zest for life. I have yet to succumb to the need to live by such philosophy. However like the contrast in seasons, Washington State also has contrasting terrain, from green and mountainous to dry and desert flatlands, from cities and towns to  country and agriculture, Pacific Ocean coasts to rainforests and islands. Summers provide a number of outdoor activities like hiking, rafting, sailing, and camping, while winters provide snowmobiling and skiing. Visits to Washington usually always include a few days enjoying the local culture of the Seattle area, downtown to Pike Place Market, around the waterfront, Space Needle, and the Seattle Music Project if time permits, and morning scones at Chinook’s. When possible, making the drive over both mountain passes to Central Washington and Wenatchee provides two different sets of worthwhile mountainous scenery. A must stay location is always Jos Cottage in Lake Wenatchee a short turn off of Steven’s Pass, just up the road from the Bavarian styled town of Leavenworth, recently labeled by The Travel Channel as One of the Most Christmasy Places in America. Once called the “Apple Capital of the World”, Wenatchee and surrounding Central Washington is rapidly becoming wine producing country, with wineries and grapes now combing the landscape even around the vast and deep Lake Chelan, in addition to known places such as the Columbia Valley. Apples, cherries, peaches, pears, Walla Walla sweet onions, good wine, great Mexican food, tasty burgers, an event for every season and a coffee/ espresso drive through kiosk on every corner with an active outdoor lifestyle. . . how can you go wrong?

EUROPE, ROMANIA

Romanian Monasteries

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The scenic drive through northern Romania visiting centuries old monasteries was a trip well worth taking.  Leaving Brasov and making our way up through the northeastern slopes of the Carpathians, the landscape changed to hues of blue-green grasses, mountains and rolling hills, picturesque with uniquely constructed  fences and domed hay stacks. The drive takes you through a number  of villages, sharing the narrow road with horse pulled carts, tractors and farm animals. The drive itself is worthy of it’s own post. Romania has numerous monasteries and while we certainly did not see them all, we visited some great ones. Leaving lasting impressions, each one is worth the recommendation. Driving into the beautiful region of Moldova (sometimes referred to as Moldavia) early morning after our usual stop at a local pastry shop, our first monastery was Văratec.  Later in the day, during our stop at the monastery in Agapia de jos (built 1642-1647), outside the town of  Târgu Neamţ, we had the privilege of giving a nun a ride into a nearby town.  However before we left for her destination, we were guided up the hill to a quiet, small wooden and very ornate monastery where we were the only visitors. The ride was very informative, and thanks to her direction we were guided to the home and museum of the famous Romanian writer and story teller, Ion Creangă, for a pleasant, unexpected surprise. Over a few days we visited a number of  monasteries throughout Bucovina and Moldova, including the famous hand painted monasteries and those commissioned by Stefan cel Mare (Voroneț-1488, Moldovița-1532, and Putna-1466). Voroneț (voro -netz) with its famous fresco of the Last Judgment painted on the west wall is done in a blue so unique, vivid and vibrant that the color was named after it: Voroneț Blue. Not far from the Romania / Ukraine border, we ended the day at the monastery of Putna, where the tomb of Stefan Cel Mare and third wife Maria are kept. The night snuck up on us and we had to look for accommodations. Pensuine Agroturistica Cerbul, was on our path and the stay was memorable. The kind owners presented us with a breakfast of fresh homemade cheeses, breads, pastries, condiments, and herbal tea from their garden. We had a great conversation before we set off for the day. (Well, not speaking the language, Michael continued to eat – too much – while Mihaela engaged in conversation and translated). We were told the story of how the location of the monastery was chosen. Stefan Cel Mare (Stefan the Great – King of Moldova) defeated the more powerful Ottomans and built the monastery as a tribute.  To choose the location he climbed Crucii Hill and fired an arrow, and in the location it landed the Putna monastery was built. Rich in history; powerful in presence; an ancient lifestyle preserved by those living in the monasteries today; architectural intrigue and a unique gift to the world, eight of the Romanian monasteries are on the UNESCO World Heritage List. A visit to the Romanian Monasteries would be a recommendation to anyone visiting Eastern Europe. And my recommendation would be to rent a car, enjoy the drive and keep your eyes open.

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