Author name: Michael

FAQ, North America, USA

I wanna go on a road trip but I don’t know were to go?

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6 of my friends and I are planning a road trip here in California, but we don’t know were to go or what to do. We live in San Diego , we don’t want to go somewhere far but not too close. 6 hours away max an at least 3 hours away. Response: Have you traveled north along the coast, like up through Laguna Beach, into the LA area and then continuing north to places like the J. Paul Getty Museum, Santa Barbara, Hearst Castle, San Luis Obispo, and Bugs Bunny’s sought after destination – Pismo Beach? Or if you prefer mountains then maybe a trip to the Big Bear Lake area east of Los Angeles or Yosemite? The greater Los Angeles area itself is loaded with interesting things to do if you are in the know. Hard to say without knowing your interests. Hope this sparks a few ideas.

Colorful Guayaquil
ECUADOR, FAQ, South America

Lima or Guayaquil for tourism?

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I`ll be for business in both countries having a free day in between. Where should I stay for my free day? Guayaquil or Lima? Thanks! Response: Guayaquil is good for a day – a full day. We just recently spent a day and a half in Guayaquil. We stayed at the Manso Boutique Hotel on Simon Bolivar in the Malecon District (main street along the boardwalk by the river). We had a private room with a loft and view of the boardwalk and river for $32 night with a continental breakfast included. Behind the hotel is the central park and plazas. Walk south down the boardwalk to an old historic district that was once in shambles. It has been renovated in old colonial style. Each building has a before photo framed and hanging on the exterior so you can the before and after. Cobblestone streets with colonial architecture, residences, art galleries, shops, restaurants, homemade empanadas, lighthouse and church at the top with a lookout over the river and entire city. Guayaquil presents a balanced mix of old colonial and modern and prices are reasonable. Note: Guayaquil is warm and humid, and there are 442 steps to the very top of the colonial town, so dress accordingly and I might recommend visiting this area in the morning or evening.

arad romania
EUROPE, ROMANIA

New Year’s in Arad Romania

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It was a cold night in Arad, Romania December 31, 2012. At least from my perspective, and undoubtedly the coldest night of this European winter holiday trip. Luckily, the Romanians know how to stay warm, and at these temperatures I am not hesitant to accept a little of the local cheer. I was nestled tightly within a crowd and for once not complaining about it. We sipped on some warm Glühwein, enjoyed the warmth of the crowd, live music and fireworks outside Arad’s capitol building. I had been prepped for the cold before going out with a few shots of Țuică – a traditional (homemade) Romanian spirit sure to keep anyone warm, cure any ailment and numb any pain. (Note: Earlier in the day, independent performers dressed in costume marched the neighborhoods, playing instruments and carolling). The Christmas market in the public capitol courtyard and side street was lined with food vendors and the fragrance of Cozonac, Kürtős being cooked on a spit over charcoal, Glühwein, and street foods sifted through the cold, crisp air. (Above link is to a recipe for  walnut filled Cozonac. Click here for poppy seed cozonac. You have to try both!). There is a saying in Romania that, in effect, states that whatever you are doing when the clock strikes the New Year, that is what your year will be filled with. From 12:00 to 12:01 am January 01, 2013, some were toasting and drinking, some were eating and some were dancing. I can say that in the first minute of the new year, there was however a lot of kissing going on- probably enough to rival the 525,599 minutes preceding it. In continuation of a positive initiation into 2013 we rounded out the first few hours in a warm kitchen with dear friends, nibbling (more food), sipping, and passing a guitar around to accommodate requests for Romanian, German, and American classics. Later in the day after some much needed rest, we walked the nearly empty streets of Arad. The temperature was nice, with no need for a coat out in the sun. Few people were out and of course most stores were closed. We roamed around a bit and returned for the camera (and more pastries) and then set out again. January 1, 2013 was a beautiful day in Arad. We passed through the parks and plazas, walked along the river, and took the time for a closer look at monuments and architecture. As the sun was setting, so was the temperature and we returned to the warmth of a home for dinner with family and packing. Miha had been called to work and we would have to leave Romania early. January 2 would be a 5:30 am train connecting through Budapest and taking us on a 16 hour journey to Leipzig, Germany. A friend once said he thought it would be fun to spend New Year’s eve in a different country each year for the rest of his life. Seems an admirable ambition worth adopting. Where to next year?

EUROPE, Europe, FAQ, Lodging

Youth hostels in Europe?

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Is there an equivalent to Youth hostels in Europe? Basically I need something cheap (but hopefully not too shabby) in late July/early August for Munich and Amsterdam. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas? Response:  You might experience a little more demand and therefore higher prices and lower availability during those months, however if you know your dates for each location, check the following: http://www.hostelworld.com http://www.hostelbookers.com http://www.airbnb.com Also, you might try registering and looking into http://www.couchsurfing.org There are some great people, kind and interesting, offering a room for a night (or few).

ECUADOR, Ecuador Lodging, Lodging

Lodging in Baños Ecuador

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Travel to Baños, Ecuador was fairly easy  from the Qutio bus terminal Quitumbre, serving travelers headed south. To be clear, there are a few different villages in Ecuador with Baños as the first word in the name. I am referring to Baños de Aguas Calientes, popular with local and international tourists and expats alike. Baños is an easy to maneuver, fairly quaint village seated in a valley thriving on tourism. While there appear to be a number of hostels and hotels within and around Baños, we stayed at Hostal Chimenea. The walk from the bus terminal in Baños to Hostal Chimenea is painless – only a few blocks. If it is raining (as it was when we departed) the taxi is US$1. Per the directions posted on Hostelbookers, “From the bus station, walk 4 blocks along Calle Maldonado and turn left onto Calle Martinez. From there, you’ll find Hostal Chimenea around six blocks along on your right.” The directions are accurate however note that as you approach the intersection where you are to go left, you might see a sign for Hotel Chiminea. There is both a hotel and a hostal Chiminea. If asking for directions, just be sure to distinguish between the two. No biggie if you end up at the wrong one – they are not that far apart. Hostal  Chimenea is across from the outdoor vendors. We found the hostel to be clean and our stay pleasant. The location is good, only a block or a few to just about anything (parque central, restaurants, hot springs). The owner/manager was friendly and accommodating, and check-in/out was easy. Pasted below is my personal review of Hostal Chiminea, as posted on Hostelbookers. Liked: One of the cleanest, more modern looking hostels we have stayed at. Clean hallways, and rooms, located right next to some of the hot spring bathing establishments and town square – although it is a small town. Balcony and view are nice, and management is easily accommodating. Easy walk to everything. Disliked: Pillows were hard as bricks. One of us chose not to use a pillow and the other awoke with a headache. Bathroom window could not be closed, and the noise from the rooftop terrace, and music playing outside could not be closed out. With concrete walls and tile floors (typical of the entire region) the interior noise echoed as well. However once the terrace closed all was fine. Click here to read what others had to say about Hostal Chimenea on Hostelbookers and TripAdvisor.

EUROPE, ROMANIA

A Traditional Christmas in Birchiş, Romania

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If you are losing a bit of that nostalgic feeling for the Christmas season, pack up and go somewhere else. We spent this past Christmas in the village of Birchiş, Romania, and New Year’s eve in Arad. The morning of Monday, December 24 began with a ceremony at the long standing village basilica, ornate with detailed, hand painted walls and ceilings. Children carried bags receiving fresh homemade bread, and a church crew dressed in traditional holiday costume performed. Completing the ceremony, the musicians began a march outside of the basilica complete with drums, wind instruments and vocals, at approximately 11 am. Throughout the day and into the evening, village children went house to house dressed in traditional costumes, caroling and acting out different religious scenes. They were complemented and rewarded with fresh bread and/or money. After the traditional breaking of bread with money in each side to see who will be destined to have the best luck in the coming year, an abundance of traditional rich, fresh foods were served up: fresh pork, all homemade bread, cheeses, soup, various spreads of eggplant (Salata de Vinete) and vegetables (Zacuscă), prune dumplings (Găluşte cu Prune), and mini cakes. We ate, of course, too much. Somewhere in the neighborhood of probably 4:30 to 5:30 am we were softly awoken by the distant chant of drums in a steady beat that was gradually growing closer.  Soon the group of musicians from the basilica arrived, having marched non-stop from the previous morning, delivering traditional cheer with a short performance at every house on every street in the entire village throughout the night. Christmas day included more food (too much), visits to friends and relatives, warmed with the local homemade hooch (Țuică). We visited the town of Săvârşin, where King Mihai of Romania (self exiled upon communist takeover) returns to his palace, and although 93 years old, visits the people of his former kingdom, bringing food and gifts to those in need every year. Too much food, warmed from the cold with homemade drink and wood burning heat, a visit from Santa Claus, generous givings from one of the remaining real Kings of a previous era, and carolers in a traditional age old performance. It’ll revive your Christmas spirit. Click on individual photos for larger view and comment option.  Again to view image full screen.

ECUADOR, SOUTH AMERICA

Ecuador to Peru: A Failed Attempt

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Invited to ride along with both our  Couchsurfing host and a professional photographer for a “short” drive from Vilcabamba, Ecuador to the border of Peru, we graciously accepted. The photographer, a very experienced and life long traveler was continuing his journey from the northern border to the southern border of Ecuador. (Remind me to hesitate before jumping into a car with a professional photographer as the driver again, especially over harrowing roads!). We left about 9 am right after breakfast, seeking to make the drive then turn around and catch photos with afternoon sun. leaving Vilcabamba the road was paved and we curved back and forth up the side of the Andes on the road towards Palanda, Ecuador, less than 30 miles away, where some of the best coffee is said to be grown. The roads turned bad; narrowed, wet and slippery with numerous mudslides being repaired and construction underway. At one point we stopped to tie the muffler back on to our matchbox sized rent-a-car. We reached Palanda just shy of 3 pm. Debating the safest way to return to Vilcabamba and get over the rough part of the road before dark (6:30), discussions involved a flat bed truck, parting ways and taking the bus, and/or spending the night in Palanda and attempting it the following morning. Being still in the rain season, any plan could go wrong. We walked into a few restaurants and sat down. Each had been empty, but it was expected someone would come in o take our orders. No such luck! Surely someone owned them and you would think would be watching. No restaurant luck, no flat bed truck, bus departed, no overnight gear, we decided to head back. The day was hot and the sky was clear, and the construction workers would be on the road until 7 pm. We turned back – but not before visiting the local store and buying a few bags of that coffee, and stocking up on some food and water. Now closer to 4 pm, leaving Palanda – or trying to – we came to a gate with a sign stating the road was closed until 6 pm. They opened the road around 5:30 pm and luckily for us the road had dried up significantly, and we were able to return to Vilcabamba climbing back over the 8,900 foot summit without any problem. Although we did not make it past Palanda or to the border of Peru, we did pick up coffee, were able to stop and take a number of Andean photos with plenty of useful tips and guidance from our professional photographer. We spent the day in good company with engaging conversation and rounded out the evening with food and drink back in Vilcabamba at the corner cafe named after Costa Rica’s claimed motto Pura Vida. So while Ecuador to Peru was today a foiled attempt (and I, personally, was not so crazy about Palanda), the day itself was success.

ECUADOR, SOUTH AMERICA

Getting to Vilcabamba

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Basically, rent a car, take a bus, or fly into the Loja airport (actually located 45 minutes away in Catamayo) and use a combination thereof. While the bus is by far the most economical method and provides for some drive by site seeing as well, it can take a while. If the rent-a-car is not in the equation, then a fair estimate for bus fare was described to us as “about $1 per hour,” and it seemed to prove a reasonably accurate observation. For example, from the Quito airport to the north terminal of Rio Coca, the fare ran $2 and took close to 2 hours. From Otavalo to Cotacachi the fare was 25 cents and took approximately 20 minutes. Running a little short on time this trip, we made a last minute decision to fly from Guayaquil to Loja on Ecuador’s airline Tame. Something to note here: airfares are of course a bit less on the company’s web-site than if purchased at the counter, however the complete-the-purchase section of their site does not function. We were trying to complete our reservations and each time we submitted the card info for payment we received a message stating it could not be processed. Attempting with two different cards and then checking with card services, it was discovered no attempts to charge were made. We looked up a local office for Tame only a few blocks away and stopped in the following morning – the day of our desired flight. The rep at the counter agreed they were advertised cheaper on the site, and apologetically confirmed that their site did not work and tickets could not currently be purchased on-line. In any event, for same day one-way tickets from Guayaquil to Loja we paid $47 + $11.69 taxes =$58.69 each. The 50 minute flight from Guayaquil lands in the valley just outside of Catamayo. No buses and only 3 taxis in site, without the appearance of much bargaining leverage, the cost of the taxi for the 45 minute ride to Loja was $20.  A more economical option may have been to take the taxi to bus terminal in Catamayo, and then connect to the terminal in Loja for continuing on to the small town of Vilcabamba. Per the directions our host had offered, we went ahead and took the taxi from the airport to Taxi de Ruta, a company located at Once de Mayo (11 of May -name of street) in Loja. While a singly hired taxi from Loja to Vilcabamba would run $15, a taxi from Taxi de Ruta is only $1.75 – the only difference being that you wait until there are a total of 3-4 people to fill the cab and share the ride. They run pretty regularly and we did not have to wait at all. We simply got out of one taxi and into another and continued on to Vilcabamba, another 45 minute ride winding through beautiful green mountain countryside with others to converse with. During our stay in Vilcabamba with our wonderful Couchsurfing host we made a day trip to Loja. $1.75 each via a Taxi de Ruta cab from Vilcabamba back to Once de Mayo in Loja, which is located only a few short blocks from the downtown market and plazas. The bus ride back was 40 or 50 cents each. Buses and taxis both arrive at the same location in Vilcabamba, which is only a two block walk in to the parque central -village center. Leaving Vilcabamba via the Loja airport in Catamayo, while there is another road as well, the suggested route is simply back through Loja. The $1.75 shared ride with Taxi de Ruta is one option back to their station in Loja, where you could then take another for about $1-$1.50 to the Loja bus terminal, go to the Catamayo bus terminal and then taxi it to the airport. However if tight on time this might not work as you may have to wait for enough people to fill the cab – and coordinate the bus schedule. A regular taxi from Vilcabamba to Loja (not shared) we were told is $15. The most economical option would be the bus from Vilcabamba to Loja, then bus from Loja to Catamayo (Since we did not visit the bus terminal in Catamayo, I am not sure if there is a bus directly to the tiny airport. Would seem there should be, but no buses were seen at the airport on either visit, and others arrived by taxi, van, or personal transportation). A number of taxis can be found around the central park in Vilcabamba that advertise airport service on the side of their vehicle, and everyone seems to have a favorite driver they can recommend and call. A taxi from Vilcabamba direct to the airport is a 1.5 hour ride and $35. One somewhat helpful site for checking bus, air, and limited train schedules and locations throughout Ecuador is www.ecuadorschedules.com. However the site does not show (at the time of this post) any bus routes to the Loja airport itself. Always advisable of course if traveling by bus is, upon arrival at a terminal, since you are there, to check the departing schedules and routes so you know the options and what to expect when returning for your departure.  

ECUADOR, Ecuador Lodging, Lodging, SOUTH AMERICA

Quito Lodging

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We arrived at Colonial House on Calle Olmedo around 3 am, originally scheduled to be in before midnight. Flight landing was delayed due to fog. The taxi driver Colonial House sent for us at the new airport outside of Quito was kind enough to wait for us. The volunteers who live and work at the hostel were great. Tired and cold they let us skip the formalities and took us right to our room to get some sleep and deal with the rest later. The staff was very friendly and helpful throughout our stay and knowledgeable of the area, taxi and bus fares, what to do and how to get around. They kept everything easy going and laid back. Our first night, we were given a different room, two beds, which had an older and more rustic appeal, with a view of the Quito angel and the courtyard out the bedroom window. The following day we were moved to a private room with one bed, wood floors, with a great view of Quito’s famous basilica from our balcony doors. Both rooms were clean and comfortable. While having common areas on each floor is a nice concept, it also results in our only negative comment – being that the noise can be significantly loud with concrete walls, preventing sleep until all go to their rooms. Coffee and tea are free all day, however the coffee is instant (somewhat disappointing in a country that produces coffee). Regarding location, there are two areas of Quito with a concentration of hostels: Mariscol Sucre is geared more for the younger generation looking for nightlife and the club seen, with a more modern architecture. Colonial House is located amongst narrow cobblestone streets of colonial architecture, and walking distance to La Basilica, the charming historical streets of the La Ronda neighborhood, and Plaza de la Independencia. However we should note that staff, friends, and reviews all warn that the character of Quito changes near sundown, with plenty of robbery stories. The hostel staff advise guests to wait inside for taxis, rather than curbside with luggage. Warnings also include not walking with luggage to the bus and metro terminals, nor being out in the evening with cameras or valuables, and to carry only passport copies – not your passport. We had no problems this trip, but everyone we met knew people with a Quito theft story, be it cell phones, cars, money or otherwise. Their stories applied to various locations throughout Quito, not just specific to our location.

ECUADOR, Ecuador Lodging, SOUTH AMERICA

Loja

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Loja is one of the southernmost cities in Ecuador,  known for it’s university, fantastic musicians and cultural arts.  A little short on time this trip, we opted for a flight from Guayaquil to Loja (en route to Vilcabamba first), rather than the bus. An easy 50 minute flight that arrived in 40 minutes was approximately US $59 with the taxes. However, the tiny “Loja” airport is actually located 45 minutes outside of Loja, in a town called Catamayo. The taxi ride to Loja will run $20. If on the way to Vilcabamba, ask the taxi driver to take you from the airport to “Taxi Ruta at Once de Mayo.” From there, you can hop into a shared cab for only $1.75 each for the next 45 minute ride to Vilcabamba. While Loja is a fairly spread out city of notable size, the walk along Simon Bolivar through the various plazas are among the most scenic. Clean little town squares with old churches, monuments, and a few cafes and various shops with a laid back atmosphere. Zig zag through the indoor market for a colorful array of fruits, vegetables and other items. The corn in Ecuador has the largest kernels I have ever seen. Make sure to extend the walk in both directions, to not only see the colorful and ornate entrance to Loja, with a large market on one side, but to see the small but colorful colonial cobblestone street Lourdes. Good luck getting a picture without cars anytime during the day. Going in the opposite direction along the river past the Entrance to Loja is Parque Jipiro, with mini monuments representative of different locations throughout the world, mini-rides, trails and some animals for the children to enjoy. While not much is found on-line in the way of hotels or hostels for lodging, there are a few places right in and around the central plaza. We visited two, both clean, with friendly service at the desk. Rates for both were equally $10 per person per night. There are others as well within short walking distance (a few blocks). However a photographer acquaintance had stayed at the Hostal Central Park and was content. The hostel does not currently have a web site. The other, Las Orquideas, was right in the the vicinity as well. The entrance was clean, however we did not visit the rooms. Las Orquideas does not have a web site either, however does have an on-line presence and mixed reviews, etc. are readily available on Trip Advisor and other sites. There are a few mainstream chain hotels and other locally owned that can be found on-line as well.

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